I've been to Moab twice. In 88 we drove in on 191, and after a brief stop at the visitor center visited Arches. We used BLM campgrounds on the river. Even when going up to Island In The Sky I bypassed most of 191, using Shafer Trail and Long Canyon.
In the mid 2000s I skipped 191 north of the river entirely, going directly to Dead Horse Pt for camping, and down Long Canyon (under the newish bolder). After a brief stop in town for lunch and groceries, I took 128 to Castle Valley and looped around town via the La Sal Mtns.
Admittedly both trips were in small campers (by RV.NET standards) - a 4x4 pickup with popup camper shell, and a CuteUte (with RT4WD).
When complaining about how ugly the town is, keep in mind that there have only been two businesses there - mining and tourists. Most of the roads/tracks originated with uranium prospectors, and pretty potash ponds are only remaining industry. And tourists come to sightsee and play outside of town.