August 30th (continued) -- Skagway
Skagway has quite a history as an important port city. It was the starting point for vast hordes of gold seekers during the Klondike gold rush, and later (especially with the completion of the railroad) a key freight port. There's still some freight traffic, but most of the port activity is related to tourism; it's a popular cruise ship port and an important stop along the Alaska Marine Highway (connecting, as it does, to the interior road system). As might be expected, the downtown area is very largely devoted to tourist accommodations.
During our visit, there were four cruise ships docked. I think during the night one of them left and was replaced by a different cruise ship. This made for a busy downtown, but somewhat surprisingly not completely overcrowded. The downtown area is fun to explore, as many of the buildings date from the gold rush era (and some others are similarly styled).
While we snooped around some and bought a couple souvenirs, we didn't end up taking many pictures of the downtown. We did go on the (shortest) rail trip offered by the White Pass and Yukon, an out-and-back excursion to the White Pass and the international border. The line currently ends at Carcross, with bus service going the rest of the way to Whitehorse.
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This is the steam rotary snowplow used by the WP&Y for many years. The line is now only open during the summer for passenger service.
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Our train approaches!
The scenery along the railroad is impressive. Passengers are permitted on the outside platforms at the ends of the cars; the view is less obstructed, but on this day at least it was cool and damp. Since this was an out-and-back run, the following pictures are not entirely in proper linear order along the route.
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This trestle/bridge (no longer in service) is considered something of a civil engineering marvel.
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Bridal Veil Falls is visible here, along the road extending roughly horizontally across the valley (and above and below it). The roadbed curving around the mountain to the left is the railroad.
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The US border station, a few miles from the actual border. "On to Alaska with Buchanan" refers to a gentleman who took many groups of young men on adventures in Alaska.
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Approaching Skagway on the return leg; the city does have quite an impressive setting.
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This caboose serves as a shelter/cabin at a whistle stop for hikers in the Tongass National Forest.
August 31stI interrupted my breakfast to run out and watch...
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We headed out of town, stopping to spend some time at the Gold Rush cemetery. Among the tombs are those of the notorious outlaw "Soapy" Smith; Frank Reid, who shot (and was shot by) Soapy and so became a city hero; and Martin Itjen, a sort of showman who developed tourism in the city and has an appropriately showmanly giant "gold" nugget chained down at the graveside.
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Lower Reid Falls is a quick walk from the cemetery and is a lovely spot.
We drove back north along the Klondike Highway as far as Carcross, where we spent some time exploring. The town has a quite nicely done walking tour brochure identifying and describing many of the older buildings, and some other intriguing things to see. It was very sleepy when we were there; things were definitely winding down for the summer.
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The SS Tutshi was a sternwheeler that was being restored (and nearing completion) as a community effort when it caught fire and was pretty well destroyed. There's a nicely done memorial park with the remains and some information panels.
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The Duchess hauled passengers between steamboats on Tagish Lake and Atlin Lake--or, apparently, sometimes the passengers had to help push the train and engine.
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The railroad built this rotating bridge at great expense to permit steamboats to pass. As it turned out, the railroad was so successful that the steamboat trade rather quickly died off and the bridge only opened a handful of times. It's since been fixed into position and no longer opens.
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Bennett Lake beach
From Carcross, we took the Tagish Road up to the Alaska Highway and spent the night at Teslin Lake Campground--where, as it happened, we had spent a night on the way to Alaska. This was the only campground we visited on two separate occasions during the trip.