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2lazy4U's avatar
2lazy4U
Explorer
May 28, 2016

Haida Gwaii

I have a friend who was a nurse on Haida Gwaii and she's told me lots about it. I would like to visit. Has anyone here been there and if so, what can you tell me about anything and everything? I would be solo car camping with my dogs.

I've read that the crossing of Hecate Strait can be very dangerous because of the shallow waters and sudden winds. Anyone done this? You can also fly there, but I would be going by ferry.

9 Replies

  • My Daughter is/was a nurse up in Masset also. Maybe your friend & her know each other! As a result, we've been over a couple of times to visit her. What Gary has mentioned is right on, but i'll add that on the north end a camp on agate beach (Provincial Park)is very nice! Cool & windy, but it can't be beat. The bears on the island know to stay away from people & are small (so are the deer). However one should always take precautions, such as keeping a clean campsite.
  • profdant139 wrote:
    2lazy, you probably already know this, but if you are in major bear country, keep in close touch with your dogs. There are quite a few stories of dogs wandering into the bush, encountering bears, running away from the enraged bears, and then leading the bears back to your campsite. I am not sure if those stories are true, but it sounds pretty plausible to me.


    Thanks for the reminder. The stories are true, as I know a couple of people who have had this happen, one in Alaska and another in the Wind River Mtns. I'm very careful to keep them on leash and we don't camp far from the car so I can get them in quickly if need be. I take bears (and moose) very seriously. I also carry bear spray and have it ready in my tent and car.
  • 2lazy, you probably already know this, but if you are in major bear country, keep in close touch with your dogs. There are quite a few stories of dogs wandering into the bush, encountering bears, running away from the enraged bears, and then leading the bears back to your campsite. I am not sure if those stories are true, but it sounds pretty plausible to me.
  • You are most welcome. There is no shortage of 'interesting' people on the Islands. You will have gotten a bit of an insight from the Blog stuff and it reads like you are pretty laid back. Your being from Colorado, lends itself to that thought. If you are in a van, then you are golden. Sleep anywhere in that.

    Make a note of 'Rennell Sound'. Good place to explore. There's a Rec Site there too. Be aware...bears abound all over the Islands. Good sushi at the joint in QC City. The Co-op has groceries. Depending on your wishes...hang out at the dock in QC City..see if you can strike up a convo with someone on a fishing boat or sailboat, maybe. Never know what might come of that.


    Gary Haupt
  • I'm well prepared on the net front from my trip to Alaska last summer. And I will take your advice and talk to the locals. I like to ride on deck and am sometimes the only one up there. I remember crossing the North Sea once in bad waves and everyone down below was sick - the secret was to stay outside where you could see around you, which made the motion more tolerable. Ever since then I ride in the fresh air. I'm already in love with this place - I love wildlands and people who live close to nature. Your videos of the Haida ceremonies were outstanding. Thanks!
  • The Islands are very rustic and support the old hippie culture of trading and and back to the land farming/ranching. If you do go...netting and repellent is a must. It is a green green forested place with lots of standing water.

    Lots and lots of just taking old roads and tenting. Google the Islands and go driving about. Once you get there...you head to one of the open coffee breakfast joints and make pals with the younger folk...they'll give you hints about good tenting places. ooohhhh...geeez...the ferry! never mind a stateroom....hang out with the deck people...they'll give lots of good info and camping spots. And during the waiting period at the Pr Rupert dock..mingle..offer a ride to someone that needs.


    Gary Haupt
  • Thanks Gary for the VERY helpful info. I'm a nature lover and would tent camp. I love solitude and hanging out and walking a lot. It sounds like my kind of place. Thanks again!
  • I have been over twice..both times with the dog. Lots...most..people have dogs on-board. You cannot take your dogs up on the decks, no. You leave you pet in the RV. You are allowed down once to ensure all is well...they announce that. Yes, the crossing can be rough..it is the Hecate Straight..one of the most cantankerous sections of water on the west coast.

    If you do go...the ferry departs at night from Pr Rupert. A suggestion is to pay the extra and get a stateroom (Reserve same time as booking ride). We did this both times...the folks up on the decks can be..uhmmm...boisterous and at 2 or 3 am, when you wanna be napping? maybe not going to happen. Coming back to the mainland is a day run, so you are up on deck watching. And really? there isn't that much to ohh and awe over.

    As for what to do and see. First off..it is pretty expensive so plan to stay at least a week. If you do? and stay in your RV and boondock? you are in the black. There are lots of hotel/motel/cabins/B&Bs too..but if you are in the RV, use it. You have to be skilled at boondocking over there, if that is your plan. It is not a heavily populated area and in fact, some folks find it boring. If you love to walk beaches and collect agates? shells? sit and watch eagles and just hang-out? you'll love it. There is an hour and a half drive from Queen Charlotte City to Massett. That is strong Haida country and it's kind of..different. If you do go to Massett? and have need of anything..let me know and I can put you in touch with folks that will assist.

    Also..again, if you go? take the ferry over to Sandspit..there is a fabulous Provincial Park and again...you just hang-out. But plan on going for a couple 4 days. The cost of going over to Sandspit kind of irks..so, make the best of it.


    Haida Gwaii travel is best suited to a truck-camper or a shorter C. I am thinking of boondocking, when I say this. If you are running a large set-up? the paved roads and so on, are fine..but to get off the beaten path? you need versatility.


    Here is the beginning of our 3 week trip last year. It has eight Blog posts...you'll need to scroll down to the end of each page and poke the 'Newer Post' button.

    http://mrgwh.blogspot.ca/2015/08/prince-rupert-fairie-and-haida-gwaii.html


    This is the Blog from our first time over...there are nine posts to this one. We didn't RV this trip.


    http://mrgwh.blogspot.ca/2013/09/boarding-ferry-to-or-from-haida-gwaii.html


    Again..if you do go? the ferry costs are high and so is food. Shop in advance in Terrace or Prince Rupert. Yes, you have to shut off your propane during the crossing. Your fridge will be fine during the crossing. Try not to be in and out of it while in line for the ferry. Let it stay cold.

    People on the Island are very proud and quiet...cel service is there in the cities, less so on the road, but if you have trouble, people will stop. Wifi is find-able....you have to be a wee bit sleuthy to find it tho. The weather is cooler than the mainland..and can get wet...hahahha...really wet.

    If anyone has any questions? Ask away.


    Gary Haupt
  • Prince Rupert to Skidegate is a seven hour ferry trip across open water which can be rough. The dogs will be confined to the car deck, you will not be permitted to stay with them except for feeding and short exercise periods.There are numerous camp sites available on the islands but be aware of restrictions regarding the dogs.