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Thom02099's avatar
Thom02099
Explorer II
Feb 25, 2018

Trip Planning - PNW

Looking for input from the good folks who live in or travel to the Pacific Northwest. Have done the obligatory search here and elsewhere, have checked Google Maps, and some things are somewhat set in stone, other things, not so much.

Starting point - Loveland CO. Destination - Olympic National Park.

Experienced Colorado mountain driver, lots of time in the areas of northern Colorado, primarily RMNP and USFS CG, as well as other areas of Colorado's central and southern mountains, so no hookups are required, but would be nice to have electric on occasion. Tow combo noted in signature.

Route of Travel - Fairly well set in stone, as the total trip has 14 days allotted and 6 of those will be travel. Not looking to sightsee on the way west, looking at approximately 500 miles/6-7 hours a day. I-80 to I-84 in Utah, first stop Snowville UT for an overnight only. I-84 through ID to Pendleton, OR area for 2nd stop, overnight only. I-84 to I-82 in to Washington, and continuing to US 12 to head west.

Option 1 - From US 12, plan on spending some time in the area of Mt St. Helens and Rainier, perhaps 2-3 days? Would 3 days be more appropriate to cover both?

Option 2 - Bypass Rainier, see MSH with a full day there, then continue on to Olympic National Park. I-5 to US 101 up to the Sequim/Port Angeles area. Spend the bulk of time there.

Questions about ONP - Best to stay in the northern part of the Park? Would a trip around to Hoh be worthwhile? Primary interest is hiking and sightseeing, perhaps some biking depending on weather.

Option 3 - Bypass MSH and Rainier and go directly to ONP. Perhaps not go to Hoh, and spend bulk of time in the northern part of the Park. Plan on leaving after 4 days, and allocate 4 days to exploring Whidbey Island and the San Juans? Take I-5 south to Everett and take US 2 to US 97, then south to I-82 and backtrack to Colorado?

The options are wide open! Olympic National Park is the primary destination, so would like to spend a goodly amount of time there and maximize the experience. Really not interested in going to Seattle or driving through the Seattle area, based on posts I've read. Seattle can always be one of those "fly in" destinations.

Question about the weather. When is the most favourable time to visit? I read that spring and fall are good times for wildlife viewing. I'm presuming that Sept/Oct are prime times for elk bugling there (different type of elk from what's in RMNP but presume their mating season is the same ;) ). Are moose prevalent in the area? Leaning more toward the fall season, for the same reasons I recommend in Colorado; snow has melted, temps are still fairly warm during the day, and the rain/snow season probably doesn't kick in until late October (yes/no??).

Any suggestions are welcomed! Never been up there, so want to enjoy the experience as much as possible. Any recommended campgrounds in the areas mentioned? Have some ideas about places to stay going out/coming back, but also open to suggestions for the areas mentioned.
  • Thanks for the information! Good to get first hand knowledge.

    So if I'm reading correctly, the rain forest area is on the west side, in the area that Tom/Barb mentioned? Around Hoh Oxbow and Upper Hoh Road? Hoh Rain Forest Visitor's Center? Appears there's a CG there, no? Are there any attractions/things to see and do on the reservations along the coast?

    Rain forest is definitely something we want to experience. Though I grew up in the Southeast US, I've been in arid Colorado long enough that semi-desert is what I'm familiar with. Want to experience that rain forest and the verdant greens I see in so many travelogues.

    What about the area around South Beach and Kalaloch? That looks interesting and would give us a view of the Pacific Ocean (never been to the Pacific).

    Hadn't thought about going over to Vancouver but that's certainly something to think about. Can that be done in a day, or should more time be allotted?
  • We've enjoyed staying at Iron Creek national forest campground off Hwy 12 near Randle. From there you can easily day trip to Windy Ridge Viewpoint of Mt. St. Helen and you can also drive to Mt. Rainier for a day hike or two. This is the 'quiet' side of both parks.

    Then take 12 west to 7 north at Tacoma and 16 north toward Port Townsend. Fort Worden State Park is very nice and Port Townsend is a fun little town with lots going on in the summer. Fort Worden has nice noon concerts. For Port Townsend you can easily day trip to Hurricane Ridge for some hiking. We also took the ferry from Port Angeles to Vancouver for a day... picked up the city bus at the harbor to take us out to Burchart Gardens.

    For Port Townsend you can also day trip to Seattle's waterfront. Drive down to Bainbridge Island and pick up the fast ferry which will drop you at the waterfront at the Aquarium and Pikes Market. Pick up the monorail to wisk you to the Space Needle and back to Pikes Market to pick up some delicacies and walk back to the ferry for your return.

    Then I'd recommend you take 101 west and move to the Salt Creek Rec. Area for the rain forest hikes or to the Forks/Kalaloch area. Here's a great write-up on that area and camping:

    https://wheelingit.us/2014/07/09/squeeze-me-and-yes-please-kalaloch-wa/

    Continue down 101 to Portland and return home if you're ready or else continue down 101 and the Oregon coast for awesome state parks.
  • From US12, the drive down FS25 to the east side of MSH will take up most of the day. 25 is paved, but not fast.

    For Rainier, from 12 I'd approach it from the SE side, and drive up to Paradise - to see the most scenic part of the mountain.

    For Olympic NP, you could take 101 in either direction. If you are going to spend most of your time on the north side, and exit via Port Townsend (and the ferry to Whidbey), I'd suggest 101 up the west side, getting a fuller taste of the rainforest side of the mountains and park.

    The north side, especially around Sequim is on the rain shadow side of the Olympics. Our biggest winds and storms have SSW winds. So the west side will always be cooler and wetter.

    In Seattle we say that summer doesn't start until July 4th. Then we have two months with little to no rain. Chance of rain increases in September, peaking in late November.

    Heading back east, consider WA20 as an alternative to US2. It's a somewhat more scenic route over the Cascades (not that 2 is bad).

    Google Maps and its streetview lets you preview most your route. WSDOT has a good collection of webcams. A UW prof, Cliff Mass has a good blog about area weather patterns. He has high praise for the newest weather radar on the SW side of the Olympics that lets them see storms coming in off the Pacific.
  • Google maps. Ho Oxbow Camp Grounds.. or the upper Ho river rd.. Im going to give up a couple of our favorite camp.
  • Unless you do some serious hiking, back country hiking, wilderness hiking, you won't see much of the Park. It is 99% high country. the west side is rain forest, the HO river area is some great fishing but it is on the reservation, the only road on the westside is 101 and the local town roads.
    The east side along hood cannel is tourist haven, and packed all summer.

    Just thought you should know.

    Our normal suggestion is, up the west side (97) north, stop and see what interests you, across the north cascades highway, (20) west, and down the west side avoiding I-5 at all costs. :)