We stayed in Panguitch for our base. A little better availability and prices on food and gas than Ruby's. We rode 12 on our Harley last year and when I ask the Wife if she wanted to ride it in the reverse direction she said "not only NO, but H*LL NO". Those drop offs on both sides really scared her. We have a 32' rig with a trailer and I'm not really sure I would drive it over some of 12 either. X2 on Red Canyon and Bryce. Zion not so much for us. Too many people and too much traffic, no where to park.
Dave