How many amps

I would carry the water without hesitation. Same as you would top off your fuel tank before entering a high cost area.

carry the fresh water, will make undetectable difference in your fuel mileage

go with near empty freshly chemically charged holding tanks

IF they get full before the ballon fest is over pay for the pump out
if they don't get full, your $25 ahead

i pay $30 where i go to dump
and i have drive there, $25 pump out is a bargain, your going be there, do you want the hassle of moving just to dump someplace free

IF you need more water buy it, but start out with full fresh water, ALWAYS when dry camping

Hobo2 wrote:
They want 25.00 to empty gray and black water tank.

How much is convenience worth to you ?

I never pay those prices.
I fill up the fresh tank at home or the last campground before an event.
I empty out when I get home at a local campground for $10 DIY or at my intermediate campsite on the way back home.

so find a place 290 miles closer where you can fill up your tank so you don't have 833 lbs.of water sloshing around in an unbaffled tank.
bumpy

Bumpyroad wrote:
so find a place 290 miles closer where you can fill up your tank so you don't have 833 lbs.of water sloshing around in an unbaffled tank.
bumpy

If the tank is full, how is the water going to be sloshing around to any significant degree?

DrewE wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:
so find a place 290 miles closer where you can fill up your tank so you don't have 833 lbs.of water sloshing around in an unbaffled tank.
bumpy

If the tank is full, how is the water going to be sloshing around to any significant degree?

well when my tank was full, driving and "wiggling" down the road would cause a bunch of it to exit via the overflow tube. I would end up with less than a full tank. but what is wrong with waiting and filling it up at the last moment?
bumpy

Bumpyroad wrote:
but what is wrong with waiting and filling it up at the last moment?

Nothing.

IF you know there is a convenient place to do that. Not all destinations HAVE a convenient stop for water nearby.

And I like to fill my system with "city" water. That tiny little chlorine residual makes me feel like the system will stay cleaner.....whether that is really true or not.

Sam Spade wrote:

dons2346 wrote:

Lwiddis wrote:
" dry camping .... residential refrigerator" equate only with many dollars spent.

Well, this is a worthless post.

Chill Don.
No it isn't.
Dry camping and a "residential" refrigerator don't go well together.
It DOES cost you a lot of money to FORCE that into a convenient operation.

I would almost recommend that an RV previously used all or mostly attached to shore power and "converted" to a 120 V only fridge, be "converted" back to a standard 120/gas model fridge if it will now be used a lot for dry camping. In the long run, the cost might not be that much different and the hassle should certainly be less.

I am chilled. The thing of it is that people that do not have a residential refer after having the old propane/electric refer have no clue as to how efficient a residential refer really is and the power required to maintain it.

Like I said, I manage 20 hours with a residential refer which requires me to run my 3000 watt inverter full time. During that time, I also am powering all of those little niggling draws such as printer, tv's clocks, etc.

dons2346 wrote:

Like I said, I manage 20 hours with a residential refer which requires me to run my 3000 watt inverter full time.

And THAT post is worthless......unless you keep going and tell the WHOLE story.

What happens the other 4 hours ?
Where do you get the power to run that inverter (almost) full time ??
Spend another chunk of money on a large solar setup and extra batteries ??

I think it is GREAT that you have found something that works for YOU but making it sound like the conversion to a res. fridge is a trivial matter is NOT doing others any favors.

dons2346 wrote:

Sam Spade wrote:

dons2346 wrote:

Lwiddis wrote:
" dry camping .... residential refrigerator" equate only with many dollars spent.

Well, this is a worthless post.

Chill Don.
No it isn't.
Dry camping and a "residential" refrigerator don't go well together.
It DOES cost you a lot of money to FORCE that into a convenient operation.

I would almost recommend that an RV previously used all or mostly attached to shore power and "converted" to a 120 V only fridge, be "converted" back to a standard 120/gas model fridge if it will now be used a lot for dry camping. In the long run, the cost might not be that much different and the hassle should certainly be less.

I am chilled. The thing of it is that people that do not have a residential refer after having the old propane/electric refer have no clue as to how efficient a residential refer really is and the power required to maintain it.

Like I said, I manage 20 hours with a residential refer which requires me to run my 3000 watt inverter full time. During that time, I also am powering all of those little niggling draws such as printer, tv's clocks, etc.

You have to overlook many things Sam says. He often posts on subjects he knows little or nothing about.