Pagosa Springs is good for a visit to say "been there, done that". But it is really a very touristy town. And the hot springs is the major attraction best as I can tell. And we have been several times.
For natural beauty, hiking trails, mountain drives, etc in that same general area, I would be more inclined to recommend
Lake City. Beautiful area and not nearly the number of tourist as Pagosa as it is off the beaten path. Some 4 wheel roads that would be best to rent a local jeep for rather than take your own truck.
In the link above, you can click on the arrow on the left side of the top picture and scroll thru the other pics. And click on each pic for additional info for each activity.