110v Residential fridge install

Almot wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

My 26ft TT HAD a 9.8 cu ft obsolete RV fridge, no suitable DIRECT replacement was available.

GD, it is easier to find a 120V replacement for fridges 9 cf.ft and up, than for 6cf. More choices in residential market. More sense doing it, too, because 10 c.f. 120V are still under $600. Or if it's a 5-er - there is more height then.

A trailer with 6.0-6.3 cf fridge is a different creature. More modifications than you imagine. Not only it won't take anything bigger than 7 cf, but there are height restrictions because converter is -usually - under the fridge. Moving converter to under the stove, lowering the fridge down to the floor, with exterior air intake half-way up - doesn't look good either. Not a priority at the moment. No urgency either - I can and did live for weeks without fridge. After furnace will have been replaced with cat heater, and solar expanded, will see what fits in the available space and available energy.

For a boondocker, replacing 12 cf LP fridge with 22cf 120V would mean making generator a very good friend. Very steady friend.

Furnace was under my fridge.

But, Since the furnace was original to the 25 yr old trailer and my inspection revealed considerable rust damage to the heat exchanger it was time to replace.

The original furnace was a Suburban which are really tall, I chose a lower profile Atwood. This allowed me to drop the fridge height nearly 6 inches! The result was the fridge was now at a more normal height AND my DW did not need a step stool to get to items in the freezer :B

Granted, in your case with a 6cu ft fridge options are a bit slim. I personally looked at a 4.4 cu ft with 2 doors home fridge, pretty good space in the fridge area but the freezer section was a bit on the small side at about 1 cu ft.

Our previous TT had a 4 cu ft RV fridge, the downside of it was we always had to drag a separate ice chest along for what didn't fit. 20lbs of ice only lasted 24 hrs in 95F-100F daily temps. We no longer are a slave to the ice chest, that alone saves us $6 in ice daily..

With a home fridge you don't need the outside air nor do you need the top vent. I blocked mine off and the fridge uses the inside air.

Moving the converter is pretty much easy peasy. You can easily extend the 12V wires if they are short without the need for any electrical boxes (While rebuilding my TT I found lots of hidden 12V splices which I got rid of while rewiring the trailer).

The 120V wiring poses some challenges since any splices need to be within a junction box but that is not all that hard to do either.

Sometimes you just need to think outside the RV "box".