2002 Jayco Qwest roof leak damage bathroom end
Hello - I'm new here, as my husband and I just purchased a 2002 Jayco Qwest not knowing there was a leak. I noticed in the shower corner along the ceiling that the wallboard (there is not a surround) was able to be pushed in. Upon looking at the roof, we noticed a screw was missing in the trim along the rear end of the roof line, and also a small hole. Problem is the damage was done. Water damage rotted out the trusses, ceiling and most of the walls in the bathroom.
I've been reading all kinds of information on what to do next. So, we tore the walls out, until we hit dry timbers, and we rolled back the rubber roof and tore out the ceiling until we hit dry trusses. The vanity, toilet, and shower have all been removed as well. We also tore into the other corner wall/ceiling along the bathroom closet area, and removed the hot water heater, down into the storage compartment you access from the outside. Here's where the questions start, as I'm getting too many mixed reviews.
1. We made solid trusses from 2 x 6's. Should we drill holes in them to allow for ventilation?
2. The insulation used in the walls was pink batting with no paper backing and no vapor barrier. Just right up against the metal exterior, and in between the interior framing. We want to go with foam. We are leaning towards XPS foam (normally pink,Owens Corning). We have 1-1/2" framing. I'm assuming go with 1-1/2" foam to avoid as many voids as possible. Where the foam meets the framing, advice on proper tape to use? Should we be using any adhesive? Should we spray foam any gaps?
3. The ceiling pieces we need to replace - what type of wood is recommended? 1/4 x 4 x 8 Plywood? Or is there something special we should consider.
5. Should we treat any wood we are attaching to with some type of wood rot product?
I'm attaching some pictures, and looking forward to hearing from others that have dealt with this. We are currently drying out the interior with a dehumidifier and fans. We want to avoid sealing in any moisture if at all possible. We have eternabond cleaner, primer, and tape, along with dicor self leveling sealant for when we go to put the roof back in place.
We also have a sagging underbelly - it's like a rubber type of material. But, I'll post that in a different thread with some pictures. Really want to get this corner taken care of first. I know we will have more questions. We spent months working on restoring a 1975 Trillium and used a forum, and boy did it save us a lot of mistakes!!!
Thank you to everyone for their input - we are treading in unfamiliar territory and want to get this done right. Hopefully, my pictures post okay.
If it makes any difference, we are used to sleeping in a tent or in our little "pod". We live in Michigan, and having a house that is 64 degrees in the winter is just right. We don't camp as much in the summer as we do in the spring and fall. (Well, and we tent camp in the winter - camper and 5th wheel are stored then.) Hopefully, this helps, too when it comes to the R value of the insulation. I'm mainly concerned with humidity, condensation, etc.
I've been reading all kinds of information on what to do next. So, we tore the walls out, until we hit dry timbers, and we rolled back the rubber roof and tore out the ceiling until we hit dry trusses. The vanity, toilet, and shower have all been removed as well. We also tore into the other corner wall/ceiling along the bathroom closet area, and removed the hot water heater, down into the storage compartment you access from the outside. Here's where the questions start, as I'm getting too many mixed reviews.
1. We made solid trusses from 2 x 6's. Should we drill holes in them to allow for ventilation?
2. The insulation used in the walls was pink batting with no paper backing and no vapor barrier. Just right up against the metal exterior, and in between the interior framing. We want to go with foam. We are leaning towards XPS foam (normally pink,Owens Corning). We have 1-1/2" framing. I'm assuming go with 1-1/2" foam to avoid as many voids as possible. Where the foam meets the framing, advice on proper tape to use? Should we be using any adhesive? Should we spray foam any gaps?
3. The ceiling pieces we need to replace - what type of wood is recommended? 1/4 x 4 x 8 Plywood? Or is there something special we should consider.
5. Should we treat any wood we are attaching to with some type of wood rot product?
I'm attaching some pictures, and looking forward to hearing from others that have dealt with this. We are currently drying out the interior with a dehumidifier and fans. We want to avoid sealing in any moisture if at all possible. We have eternabond cleaner, primer, and tape, along with dicor self leveling sealant for when we go to put the roof back in place.
We also have a sagging underbelly - it's like a rubber type of material. But, I'll post that in a different thread with some pictures. Really want to get this corner taken care of first. I know we will have more questions. We spent months working on restoring a 1975 Trillium and used a forum, and boy did it save us a lot of mistakes!!!
Thank you to everyone for their input - we are treading in unfamiliar territory and want to get this done right. Hopefully, my pictures post okay.
If it makes any difference, we are used to sleeping in a tent or in our little "pod". We live in Michigan, and having a house that is 64 degrees in the winter is just right. We don't camp as much in the summer as we do in the spring and fall. (Well, and we tent camp in the winter - camper and 5th wheel are stored then.) Hopefully, this helps, too when it comes to the R value of the insulation. I'm mainly concerned with humidity, condensation, etc.
