Forum Discussion
85IrocZ-28
Apr 20, 2018Explorer
With the c channel stitch welded in place, the axle feels solid and isn't going anywhere. With the lift block sandwiched between these c channels and the inner factory flange, I should't have any side to side flex that would over stress the welds.
Here's a side view of the supports.
I also tacked the axle to the lift. If the axle needs to be removed, It isn't so much that it can't be ground down.
A bit of rusty metal primer to cover everthing after wire brushing the welds. I later covered it with undercoating.
Our initial trip was to 4 hours south to Moab UT, a great way to break in the new lift. Over washboard roads and curves, everything is solid. The trailer tracks really well and doesn't feel sloppy on the corners. There is no cracking or movement in the lift welds, everything remains strong. I will continue to monitor its strength over time. I am really happy I lifted it. I was nervous about damaging the plumbing due to how low it was. With the current height, I am much more comfortable. The tow vehicle has a fairly tall tow point (lifted jeep, aftermarket bumper that moves the receiver up even further).
With the lift, I also went to a larger rim and tire. I could have gone larger, but I decided a 205x75x15 was a fairly common tire size and a good choice, without too large of a sidewall. The original rims were 13 inches with 185x80x13's. The tires look good this size, and everything is proportioned well with the lift. There is plenty of clearance, and the larger tires will not impact the body of the trailer as the suspension moves. With the larger tire diameter and lift, the trailer sits 7 3/4 inches higher than it did before, exactly where I wanted to be.
I thought about adding a thin walled tube from the bottom to bottom of the new 2x6, above the axle, with a triangulated gusset from the tube and up the 2x6 and rear flange to prevent additional side to side flex, but it seemed fine so far, so I am not sure if i will go to that extent...we'll see.
Here's a side view of the supports.
I also tacked the axle to the lift. If the axle needs to be removed, It isn't so much that it can't be ground down.
A bit of rusty metal primer to cover everthing after wire brushing the welds. I later covered it with undercoating.
Our initial trip was to 4 hours south to Moab UT, a great way to break in the new lift. Over washboard roads and curves, everything is solid. The trailer tracks really well and doesn't feel sloppy on the corners. There is no cracking or movement in the lift welds, everything remains strong. I will continue to monitor its strength over time. I am really happy I lifted it. I was nervous about damaging the plumbing due to how low it was. With the current height, I am much more comfortable. The tow vehicle has a fairly tall tow point (lifted jeep, aftermarket bumper that moves the receiver up even further).
With the lift, I also went to a larger rim and tire. I could have gone larger, but I decided a 205x75x15 was a fairly common tire size and a good choice, without too large of a sidewall. The original rims were 13 inches with 185x80x13's. The tires look good this size, and everything is proportioned well with the lift. There is plenty of clearance, and the larger tires will not impact the body of the trailer as the suspension moves. With the larger tire diameter and lift, the trailer sits 7 3/4 inches higher than it did before, exactly where I wanted to be.
I thought about adding a thin walled tube from the bottom to bottom of the new 2x6, above the axle, with a triangulated gusset from the tube and up the 2x6 and rear flange to prevent additional side to side flex, but it seemed fine so far, so I am not sure if i will go to that extent...we'll see.
About DIY Maintenance
RV projects you can tackle on your own with a few friendly pointers.4,352 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 20, 2025