AC Volt Meter Install

Hoosier Cruiser wrote:
If you install a power monitor on the input line which I think is necessary to prevent surges or brown outs, why do you need a meter? Surges and brown outs can happen so fast that a meter will not register the problem.

Sounds like you never used a voltage meter in a RV, here is how I use mine. I plug in and check voltage, lets say it is 120v. Good! I turn on AC 115-118v...i have good park power. If I see 110 after I turn on the AC I might not use the electric part of the hot water heater or run the frig on AC if it really drops. That was one example.

Volt meters can give you a lot of info if you know the trends and what to look for.

Do not mix 120 volt AC with 12 Volt DC in the same box. And yes the 120 should be terminated in an approved electrical box. Use romex wiring with approved connectors or flexible conduit from the box into the Circuit breaker panel. I would use 14 and install a 15 amp circuit breaker. Also use and approved cover to mount the meter.
Please not the 120 volt meter is NOT UL listed or approved.
If you some of you are in doubt about the mixing of low voltage and line voltage why do you thank the Circuit breaker is separated from the 12 fused section.

If you install a power monitor on the input line which I think is necessary to prevent surges or brown outs, why do you need a meter? Surges and brown outs can happen so fast that a meter will not register the problem.

They make a nice night light, so you might want to give that consideration when choosing a mounting location. I also added a on/off switch so if I didn't want the light on.

I never did take any pictures of the installation but the 3-gang switch plate is mounted just below the JENSEN radio in my off road POPUP. I picked this point so I could mess with my battery banks on the outside and look thru the trailer door to watch the meters when I need to.

If it is just a volt meter, any insulated wire rated for more than 120 volts would be fine. Voltmeters do not draw hardly any current. As for whether you need a box or some sort of a backing plate, depends on the meter you get. You don't want it being possible for anything to short out the terminals on the back of the meter.

These are the three meters i got from SURE ELECTRONICS ebay/china..

I mounted them in a 3-gang specialty switch plate and housed in a LOWES PVC SWITCH BOX.

All of my wiring is in 3/4-inch flexible PVC flexible conduit that taps my battery bank switch connectors.

All wiring in inside the PVC conduit.



I fused my DC wiring with 1 AMP in-line fuses. My DC Current meter is one of those donut type connections. Those wires also have a 1 AMP inline fuse.

I didnt get the 120VAC meter but definitely would use 2-conduct wiring so that nothing would come in contact with the 120VAC.

My meters turned out to be very bright and I had to install a RADIO SHACK toggle switch to turn them off with. Lit up my whole trailer.

My meters have been in use now for about four years... great purchase ...

Roy Ken