Add outside receptacle

My '98 Coachmen class C does; I can see the back side of it from an interior compartment. It does have the weatherproof cover with flap thingies on the outside, of course.

Were I adding another, I would probably use a normal residential weatherproof box and outlet setup of decent quality (i.e. spec grade). I'm not a great fan of the usual RV quick connect outlets. Actually, truth be told, I would be mighty tempted to do without the weatherproof setup and install the outlet inside a storage bay.

Do make sure in any case that it's protected by a GFCI.

Hornnumb2 wrote:
I want to add a extra outside 120 receptacle. Does any body know if they just use the quick connect type socket from the factory?

Curious - what is a 120 volt quick connect receptacle?

myredracer wrote:

Hornnumb2 wrote:
I want to add a extra outside 120 receptacle. Does any body know if they just use the quick connect type socket from the factory?

Curious - what is a 120 volt quick connect receptacle?

The type that's often used in RV's. The wires just lay inside it, the back is pushed on and that pushes wires down into pinch connectors. Not a great connection, definitely not good for high current use like hair dryers, vacuums, etc.

Horn,

There are really three separate issues here:
1 - Solid Wire
2 - Weather proofing
3 - Safety

1 - If you plan to use solid romex, this issue is probably already lost. Things that move should not be wired with solid wire, but there is no USCG (or any real oversight for that matter) oversight of the RV industry. Problem, you cannot simply stuff stranded wire into a cheap duplex.
2 - The duplex receptacle should have at least a weatherproof cover if you can't put it in a closed location.
3 - Any power that will be used outside should be supplied through a GFCI breaker. This way, if(When) something goes wrong, it shuts down and nobody dies.

Matt

First the whole trailer is wired with romex so not sure what you mean there.
The cover will be weatherproof just like is already on the outside now.
It will have a gfci outlet not breaker. Thanks

Hank MI wrote:

myredracer wrote:

Hornnumb2 wrote:
I want to add a extra outside 120 receptacle. Does any body know if they just use the quick connect type socket from the factory?

Curious - what is a 120 volt quick connect receptacle?

The type that's often used in RV's. The wires just lay inside it, the back is pushed on and that pushes wires down into pinch connectors. Not a great connection, definitely not good for high current use like hair dryers, vacuums, etc.

Then you are talking about a self-contained device (SCD) like in the photo. They are not "quick connect" devices and they are not "cheap" as in substandard. Hubbell info. here. As an EE, I can say there is no reason not to use these. They are CSA/UL listed and tested to very rigorous standards and to the full current rating of the device. They're also used in mobile homes.

The problem that comes with them is that some people do not push the wires onto the IDC "stabs" properly, including even an RV manufacturer. One day a worker can be doing carpentry and the next day electrical - it's not done by qualified/licensed electricians like in buildings. The first time I pulled one out in our first TT, the wires were barely hanging on. There is a tool that is available for this but the wires can be pushed just fine with a large flat blade screwdriver or needle nose pliers.

SDC receptacles are used in RVs because they fit in the typical 1" (or so) exterior walls and cabinetry (under upper cabinets, for ex.). If you do use a standard receptacle, it MUST be installed in an outlet box.

On exterior weatherproof RV receptacles, once the flap is opened and a plug inserted, it's no longer weatherproof. That's why on houses they went to the type like in the 2nd photo, which you *could* use but not they're not exactly attractive.

It's the push-in stabs on residential receptacles I don't like. You can't see the connection inside and they don't seem that substantial to me. These can sometimes overheat at the end of a circuit with the max. number of receptacles allowed and under high current draw.

Nothing wrong with using solid conductors in 120 VAC branch circuit wiring in an RV.

Spec grade won't give you a better connection to the terminals, they have higher/better blade retention force. Plugs are harder to push in and pull out and I suspect could possibly be harder on an RV wall. Hospital grade have the highest retention force and almost need a gorilla to use them.

MH is full of romex wire have outlets in the bays no weather proof covers. Can we not get to crazy on this subject

DrewE wrote:
...
Were I adding another, I would probably use a normal residential weatherproof box and outlet setup of decent quality (i.e. spec grade). I'm not a great fan of the usual RV quick connect outlets. Actually, truth be told, I would be mighty tempted to do without the weatherproof setup and install the outlet inside a storage bay......

I did that this year, with EMT leading to the outlet. I find I love having an outlet in the basement.