Adding solar to class C

Karfae69 wrote:
I'm considering adding solar to my RV to run basic stuff, not worried about A/C or large load stuff. I do have Directv and a LCD TV. The fridge can run on the propane. We do some dry camping at races and a few other places that I'd rather not run the generator. Any recommendations on what kind of setup to think about?

Also convert to LED lights inside, if you haven't already. Get them on ebay from this seller. Search by the type of light bulb you have now, such as 921,1141, etc.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/2011_led/m.html?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEFSXS%3AMESOI&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2654

You'll need a small inverter, wired close to the batteries, with the 110v then running up to your TV area. Or you can try a cig plug inverter like the Samlex I have. It has enough power to run my TV and DISH receiver, but the 12v wall outlet itself can't supply enough voltage to the inverter, so the inverter errors out.
Here's mine.
Probably should get this one instead

When you map your roof, see where you can place panels so they are as far from an object as it is tall. If your AC is 12" tall, stay 12" from it. Open your vents and raise your TV antenna for this exercise.
Here's how I did it

OK, here is a budget 316 watt system:

I have room, barely, for these two panels. Shipping is another $95 but still a great price overall, IMO:
http://www.dmsolar.com/dm15somo2pkp.html

If you don't have room for those, see if you can fit three 100w panels. While it is good to do an energy audit and all that, practically speaking if you can fit 300w up there, given today's low panel prices, just go for it.

Here is a known good controller. I have one. It does temperature compensation but measures it at the device itself, not at the batteries. So you have to use your head about placement, while keeping it close to the batteries to minimize the loss of charging voltage. If you need a remote temperature sensing wire at the batteries, go up to the Prostar 30 controller. Many people use ebay controllers, less than $20, although for now I'm seeing the MS prices as "worth it". YMMV.
Basic Morningstar controller

People either love or hate Handy Bob's blog. Check out this page, and scroll down to the heading RV Solar Systems. You could do a lot worse than to simply copy the system he calls "Small Camping Trailer".
http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/2014-solar-ideas-batteries-other-things/

Wiring, routing, monitors, and mounts are subjects unto themselves.

Need to map the space on the roof to see what fits. Panels need to be away from other items to avoid even partial shading fron vents, air conditioner, antennas etc. Probably you are looking for 100 to 300 watts of solar. I assume you have at least two batteries and a small inverter to run the tv. Also consider LED interior lights to compliment the system with conservation.

Here are some panels to look at to measure and see what fits:
http://www.solarblvd.com/12v Solar-Panels

Here are some other systems to look at with pics:
Forum Members Solar Installations With Pics

As PT indicated the appropriate solar system paired with the appropriate battery bank is highly dependent on your intended usage. The spreadsheet provided in PTs post is an excellent resource for initial sizing estimates.

Since my guess at your intended use appears to be close to what I use mine for my system is listed below just for reference. I mainly use mine for college football tailgating generally meaning 3 days and 2 nights without any hookups and using multiple HDTVs with satellite for many hours every day
- 265 Watts solar 12v nominal panels
- PWM Morningstar Prostar controller (upgrading to a 20a MPPT Landstar controller shortly as a guinea pig for this forum group)
- Twin 6volt Trojan T-105s as a battery bank rated at 225AH at 12volt
- 600 Watt PSW Inverter with auto switching to desired AC circuits
- No Microwave use (Inverter is not large enough)
- Most used lights have been converted to LEDs

I can easily do the long weekends without going below 80% DOD and generally stay above 50% DOD depending on weather conditions.

Here is a simple flow chart.

Budget-->Energy Audit-->Battery bank size-->number of watts-->PWM or MPPT. What ever type of controller is chosen, make sure it has adjustable set points and a temperature probe that is on the battery.

One rule of thumb is between 60 and 150 watts of panels per 100 amp-hours of storage. The smaller the battery bank the higher the wattage needed (per 100 amp-hours). Here is a link to the rather special spreadsheet which includes an energy audit, that N8GS has created to help size solar battery charging systems!

Solar Spread Sheet N8GS

For a nice explanation of solar, try this link:

Golden rules of solar