Brake,tail and signal light conversion to LED

You might try a high freq. PWM to trim your lights down if you feel they are getting to much current.

gmctoyman wrote:
Looking at all of the OTR drivers going to LEDs, many Bargman, I'd say YOU have a problem with YOUR system. JMOO

I do a LOT of highway driving on my commute to work and a lot of that on a major Interstate with lots of truck traffic. It is EASIER to count the trucks with ALL GOOD working LED lights.

I can tell you that easily 75% or more big rigs I see daily will have at least one LED module partially or fully dead.

Not to mention the amount of LED traffic lights which are failing at rather fast rates.. Recently I have noticed the a lot of LED traffic lights being relamped with INCADESCENT lights!

The problem is the manufacturers of these assemblies are PUSHING the current and heat limits of the LEDs they chose to use in order to maximize the brightness. These LEDs are "potted" in an epoxy to water proof them and the same time the epoxy is not allowing the heat generated to be dissipated away from the LED junctions.

It is a popular "belief" that LEDS do not generate heat.. That belief is FALSE. LED junctions DO INDEED create heat, they are no different from transistors in that respect.

Run current through a semiconductive junction and heat happens. Run too much current through the junction and too much heat happens. When too much heat happens (or not enough heat is removed from the junction) the junction will eventually FAIL.

The way to fix this problem is to REDUCE the current draw EVER SO SLIGHTLY, reducing the current draw will extend the life by reducing the heat across the junction.

Good chance the modules current draw can be reduced by 10% or even 20% with very little loss in light output. That is where I am now going and will be the ultimate fix.

I am looking at using several regular diodes in series with the bargman modules to drop the voltage down about 1.4V and check the current draw and brightness.

I WILL find a way to fix this garbage and make them reliable..

Looking at all of the OTR drivers going to LEDs, many Bargman, I'd say YOU have a problem with YOUR system. JMOO

wmoses wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
There is really no good reason to change from the factory incadescent bulb to a LED other than wasting your money AND you will have to defeat a safety item to do that anyways (LEDS DO FAIL, if you don't believe me I HAVE a failed set of $60 Bargman trailer tail lights laying around).

Maybe he likes the instant-on /-off responsiveness of LEDs ... I do. That and the fact that the Bergman assemblies are more monsoon-resistant than the sometimes El cheapo lens assemblies that come with some trailers, and which allow water ingress which then shatters incandescent bulbs and you have no clue but keep driving for 3 hours in the driving rain ... don't ask me how I know.

The Bargmans (and other LED modules)are not "repairable" either and at nearly $60 for ONE module is not a cheap fix.

Not to mention you CAN NOT pickup a new Bargman module at your local Walmart, Dollar General and so on. Therefore it is WISE to BUY AN EXTRA module so you can replace it WHEN it fails while you are thousands of miles from home..

So far I have had TWO Bargman modules QUIT, one the brake/turn quit and the other the "marker" quit. $120 worth of no functioning junk.

Don't go there about "lifetime" warranty.. The shipping cost alone now days will easily set you back $20 or more, then you WAIT, WAIT, WAIT and WAIT some more. And while you are waiting what do you do with no module?

This spring as I mentioned in another post I had a TOP LED marker quit the same day as my annual PA safety inspection. Fortunately those markers are not sealed (the LED cluster inside is "potted" but the lens can be removed) and I was able to substitute another LED cluster.

Just got back from a 1600 mile trip and now I have ANOTHER MARKER OUT!

These LED things as designed and sold are not dependable.. I am now going to RETROFIT ALL the markers with the modules I bought which I WILL be dimming down and INCREASING the life of those modules with a resistor.

I did the LED upgrade to my tail lamps to be more visible. I am a motorcyclist and am big on defensive driving. Be seen.

They are a whole lot brighter than the OEM tails. Plain and simple.

I also did all the inside fixtures to save power when dry camping.

Happy camper.

Gdetrailer wrote:
There is really no good reason to change from the factory incadescent bulb to a LED other than wasting your money AND you will have to defeat a safety item to do that anyways (LEDS DO FAIL, if you don't believe me I HAVE a failed set of $60 Bargman trailer tail lights laying around).

Maybe he likes the instant-on /-off responsiveness of LEDs ... I do. That and the fact that the Bergman assemblies are more monsoon-resistant than the sometimes El cheapo lens assemblies that come with some trailers, and which allow water ingress which then shatters incandescent bulbs and you have no clue but keep driving for 3 hours in the driving rain ... don't ask me how I know.

I double tow most of the time. I installed LED lights on the trailer to reduce the load on the electrical system in the truck. Plus the LED are easier to see.

I also have LED lights inside the trailer. The LED light in my bathroom does interfere with my TV reception when I am using over the air TV.

I was surprised the digital TV broadcast would be affected but it is. Total blackout when the bathroom LED light is on. Other LED lights in trailer cause no interference and are the same units. The bathroom unit is close to the roof antenna entrance.

I changed out the OEM stop and taillight assemblies on out fifth after my brother who was following me said they were very dim and hard to see.
I installed boat trailer LEDs assemblies and it sure makes a difference in visibility.
Bought locally from State Trailer Supply in Salt Lake City, UT.

I never got interested in swapping ours out. Our incandescent automotive types are visual enough for us...

The only reason I switched to LEDs inside the trailer was to save battery drain. Since the trailers safety lights all run from the truck battery was no incentive for me.

Also LED lights are prone to produce RFI Signals that interfere with the HDTV and other electronics. Being a HAM RADIO guy I have to fight that stuff all the time. Between LED lights and on-board INVERTERs I have my work cut out for for when playing with my HAM RADIO.

Roy ken

Here is what I installed. I got them from Princess Auto - a Canadian store similar to Harbor Freight. They are submersible and have been working for over 3 years - and lots of rain and miles.

Paid $50 for the pair. The LH one has another LED at the bottom for lighting up the licence plate/tag.

IMG_4661_a by Denis S.

IMG_4662 by Denis S.