Forum Discussion
profdant139
Mar 20, 2018Explorer II
Someone asked for a link to an earlier recirculation project:
Hot water recirculator to prevent freezing of lines
My plan (I think) is a little different, and I don't know if it is possible -- the hot water will enter the fresh water tank through a tee in the top tube. The temperature-sensitive valve (see the posting above) will monitor the temp of the water in the tank, perhaps by a sensor in the return line feeding the water heater.
I am hoping (not sure this will work) to "tune" the sensor valve so that it keeps the water in the tank at about 40 degrees, cycling on and off as needed to keep the fresh water system from freezing.
Of course, I will add beefy foam insulation, and of course the bottom will be sealed off with coroplast. That's the easy part. A lot of work, but not technically demanding.
The hard part is figuring out a way to keep the water just warm enough both in transit and while boondocking.
I do not intend to camp in 30 below temps, if I can avoid it --but I do want to do some mid-winter boondocking in the Eastern Sierra, so the heating pads are not going to do the job for me. (I may install them anyway, on the theory that they will come in handy when we have hookups in the winter.)
I suppose I could just monitor my water heater next time we go camping -- turn it on, and maybe put a video camera on my control panel to see if the little "DLI" light comes on (indicating a flame-out). If the water heater can handle the wind while we are driving, I think I can figure out a way to plumb the recirculation system to keep the tank above freezing.
Too bad we are forbidden to own little nuclear reactors, like on a satellite. That would solve everything . . . . . ;)
Hot water recirculator to prevent freezing of lines
My plan (I think) is a little different, and I don't know if it is possible -- the hot water will enter the fresh water tank through a tee in the top tube. The temperature-sensitive valve (see the posting above) will monitor the temp of the water in the tank, perhaps by a sensor in the return line feeding the water heater.
I am hoping (not sure this will work) to "tune" the sensor valve so that it keeps the water in the tank at about 40 degrees, cycling on and off as needed to keep the fresh water system from freezing.
Of course, I will add beefy foam insulation, and of course the bottom will be sealed off with coroplast. That's the easy part. A lot of work, but not technically demanding.
The hard part is figuring out a way to keep the water just warm enough both in transit and while boondocking.
I do not intend to camp in 30 below temps, if I can avoid it --but I do want to do some mid-winter boondocking in the Eastern Sierra, so the heating pads are not going to do the job for me. (I may install them anyway, on the theory that they will come in handy when we have hookups in the winter.)
I suppose I could just monitor my water heater next time we go camping -- turn it on, and maybe put a video camera on my control panel to see if the little "DLI" light comes on (indicating a flame-out). If the water heater can handle the wind while we are driving, I think I can figure out a way to plumb the recirculation system to keep the tank above freezing.
Too bad we are forbidden to own little nuclear reactors, like on a satellite. That would solve everything . . . . . ;)
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