Centre stabilizing jacks

I'm using two additional stabilizers placed under the center of our TT as well. It's 37.5 ft long, and it came with power stabilizer jacks which in my opinion are junk for trying to stabilize a camper. But adding the two scissor jacks definitely made it more stable. I plan on welding two flat steel plates to the frame to mount them permanently.

93Cobra2771 wrote:
Well done and GREAT writeup. And your comments on drilling into steel on your back are SO true. LOL

Thanks!

We did the test when Dawn came home and things are a lot firmer. The centre jacks are rated at 5000 lbs each and the trailer weighs a little shy of 6000 lbs so we can take a LOT of weight off the wheels with these.

One of my first mods was to put a set of stabilizers between the front jacks and the wheels on our 5th wheel. With the power drill and a socket it is a snap to extend and retract them plus it makes the camper rock solid. Especially when the grandkids are with us...they cannot just walk they have to jump and hop......

Nice work.

If anyone needs a jack, check the local junk yards. They're in about every car on the lot and if you pay more than 5 bucks each you're paying to much. Just find one that will work out of a common make and model. You'll be able to find 4 that match if you call around. Most of them get crushed with the car. Nobody wants them.

^^^^^^^^^That's a great idea^^^^^^^^^^^^
I have at least one out in the garage. I'll take it next trip. Thanks

JD and Beastlet wrote:
I set up a 5-1/2" stop block on my mitre saw and got to work. Total yield from the four planks: 68 pads.



With the spreading wheel chocks installed and the highest possible set of blocks under each jack, it seemed to be firmer... but it's hard to test with one, so when Dawn comes home we'll have the official word.

If these aren't good enough, no worries - the pads become firewood and we consider other options. Like STEADYfast. :)

OR JT Strong Arm Lock Stabilizers OR BAL Lock-Arm Stabilizing Bar ... lots of choices. :) I just haven't found it necessary to go that far with any of the dual axle trailers we've owned, finding BAL X-Chocks sufficient. Of course a third set of centre mounted stabs as you've done has always been a popular mod that many find quite effective, 'though I'd probably have first tried a set of adjustable stacker jacks instead.

I know you enjoy a challenge John but using so many blocks under each stabilizer is IMO way overkill when all you need is just a sufficient number so the stabs aren't fully extended in order to reach the ground. Some time ago I was gifted a set of 16 plastic blocks so I secured them together in sets of 4 each and use those as required under the stabs and have yet to run into any situation in which that number weren't sufficient ...



Of course they're far lighter than all those wood blocks you've assembled yet their footprint is also more than twice that of your 5.5" x 5.5" blocks.

Since our driveway slopes significantly toward the street I also use these same plastic blocks, two 4x stacks under the front stabs, none under the rear, so they in effect see full time use throughout the camping season. Here in Canadaland plastic blocks like these are of course way too costly, as is just about anything else RV related, but even the venerable Lynx Levelers are a mere $30+ US for a set of 10 at US WallyWorld stores. :)

Thanks I'm exhausted trying to follow all the tips On how to stabilize, (With 4 Connors an tongue jack.) Ant happening jack on my unit. 2 in the middle an she gets to roll over all night without me yelling stay still

Will get em on b4 next trip. May even play with setting them at different point b4 I fasten them to fframe. Also my last thought was blocks may absorb more than the plastic dominoes

SoundGuy wrote:

JD and Beastlet wrote:
I set up a 5-1/2" stop block on my mitre saw and got to work. Total yield from the four planks: 68 pads.



With the spreading wheel chocks installed and the highest possible set of blocks under each jack, it seemed to be firmer... but it's hard to test with one, so when Dawn comes home we'll have the official word.

If these aren't good enough, no worries - the pads become firewood and we consider other options. Like STEADYfast. :)

OR JT Strong Arm Lock Stabilizers OR BAL Lock-Arm Stabilizing Bar ... lots of choices. :) I just haven't found it necessary to go that far with any of the dual axle trailers we've owned, finding BAL X-Chocks sufficient. Of course a third set of centre mounted stabs as you've done has always been a popular mod that many find quite effective, 'though I'd probably have first tried a set of adjustable stacker jacks instead.

I know you enjoy a challenge John but using so many blocks under each stabilizer is IMO way overkill when all you need is just a sufficient number so the stabs aren't fully extended in order to reach the ground. Some time ago I was gifted a set of 16 plastic blocks so I secured them together in sets of 4 each and use those as required under the stabs and have yet to run into any situation in which that number weren't sufficient ...



Of course they're far lighter than all those wood blocks you've assembled yet their footprint is also more than twice that of your 5.5" x 5.5" blocks.

Since our driveway slopes significantly toward the street I also use these same plastic blocks, two 4x stacks under the front stabs, none under the rear, so they in effect see full time use throughout the camping season. Here in Canadaland plastic blocks like these are of course way too costly, as is just about anything else RV related, but even the venerable Lynx Levelers are a mere $30+ US for a set of 10 at US WallyWorld stores. :)

We're bringing the blocks to PEI with us for a full-on camping test. I'll report back on how well our new attempts at stabilization actually work.