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lawrosa's avatar
lawrosa
Explorer
Mar 22, 2015

Charging with TV alternator... Mod with pics...

Finally finished my charging cable mod from TV alt/battery direct to camper batterys for dry camping...

I did a small charge today and checked voltages only. My clamp on amp meter was not working... I will post back with amps and how long it takes to recharge from 12 volts to fully charged...

These are the anderson like connectors I got cheap on amazon. total about $40 bucks. I had to cut the ends and solder on a 3/8" ring to connect to battery. The other side was fine. I connected the other to a 50 amp resettable breaker..

These are 6 gauge.

Also note my truck has a 105 amp alt. I want to limit the amps out why I used 50 amp breakers. Truck runs alone at about 20 amps. So it should not do more then 70 when charging.

I may change the breakers to 40 or 30 amperes...




New battery studs/side mount with 3/8" extension. 50 amp breaker on pos side with bracket. Got these breakers from e trailer...






50 amp breaker with bracket.






Keep it rolled up in a void near firewall..





Camper side. 8ft rolls up nice and stores in left side box.. Note 50 amp breaker on this end too on pos side right batt.... Dont need no short or fires...





Connected to TV.....







This is the voltage I am getting at my home made meter. I tied into 12v wires that are in the wall for the tank/battery monitor. so its not right from the convertor.

Notice 14.32 volts. I gave a charge when batterys were down to 12.4.

So the truck puts out over 14 volts.




And this is at the batterys.. 14.47 volts from my alternator... Cant get any better then this.. IMO I should be able to recharge my batterys when boondocking in a few hours...




Any one what to share what I can do better or criticism let me know please...

Hope this helps others that may want to try this mod...

Again I will get amp readings soon...

69 Replies

  • Hi,

    It will be fine.

    I prefer to not idle my Ford v-10.

    Consumption is about 1.5 gph if I remember correctly.
  • sch911 wrote:
    So you're planning on leaving the truck run for hours and hours during the day? Doesn't sound so economical to me...


    Again... why not??? Maybe 2 hours...Have you calculated the gas use of an idleing truck vs a genberator running at 3500 rpm;s? IMO the truck wins every time...


    Please explain...
  • tvman44 wrote:
    Expensive battery charger.


    What is expensive about it? Im sure ill use less fuel then a gen. Parts cost less then 100 bucks...

    How much is a honda? How much to change my magnatec 6332 to a 3 stage charger? at least $1500 for both no?

    Please explain...

    I just want to be sure I did the right thing...
  • RoyB wrote:


    Depending on your DC current demand by how large your battery bank is you could easily demand an additional 50-100 DC AMPS from your truck alternator system during the charge cycle and this may be over what the truck alternator can produce. That could result in "game over" for the truck alternator..
    Also idling your truck motor for three to four hours is probably not all that great on your truck motor.

    I charge my 50% charge state trailer batteries with the on-board converter/charger being run by my 2kW Honda Generator setup using a RV30A-15A long adapter.
    Battery science says if your want to fully charge your batteries using 14.4VDC it will take right at 12 hours if you are able to produce 17-20AMPs of DC Current per battery in your bank...

    Lets us know how you make out... Not saying it will not work out for you just something I would not put my truck alternator on the line. This alternator system is only designed to charge a single 12VDC START battery.

    just saying
    Roy Ken


    OK but if there is a demand better then 50 amps the breaker will trip. Then reset and continue charging. Thats why I put a 50 amp breaker in..

    Why idling my truck for 3 hours is not good? Can you explain?

    So how much gas do you use with your gen? My truck will probably use less gas then a genand is quieter then the Honda I am sure... And I am getting same amps or more and same voltage...

    Hence why I did this mod...

    Please explain?
  • Golden_HVAC wrote:

    It looks like you used the right things to get this project done. It should quickly fill your battery. However know that while the engine is at idle, there is not a lot of oil flow (volume) to the upper end of the valve train. So while you might not think it will do any damage to idle the engine for a hour, it can. Ford says not to idle their diesel trucks, even while hitching up the truck to the trailer.

    The gas trucks can handle more idling, but still it is not 'good' for them.

    That said, you can plug in your truck to the trailer for say 10 minutes, and some of the truck's battery power will go into the trailer. Then a short run of the truck will provide max amperage from the alternator. 10 minutes at 130 amps will provide 2 amp hours per minute, or upwards of 20 amp hours in 10 minutes.

    Your RV will consume 35 amp hours per day to just run the propane detector and CO detector, and refrigerator. Add lights to this, and it will be around 50 AH daily.


    Fred.


    I have two duracell 75 ah batterys... No way am I using 35 ah a day IMO... Like I said I have 50 amp breakers that will limit charge from the alt... Again I have 105 amp alt.

    My lights are all led with a draw of .7 amps per light.

    Cars and trucks idle all the time in traffic so I dont know what damage is possible I can do to my motor...

    This is a gasser...
  • So you're planning on leaving the truck run for hours and hours during the day? Doesn't sound so economical to me...
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    Good luck... I wouldn't do it as this breaks rule #1 - "Never mess with the truck systems. This is the only way to get home..."

    Depending on your DC current demand by how large your battery bank is you could easily demand an additional 50-100 DC AMPS from your truck alternator system during the charge cycle and this may be over what the truck alternator can produce. That could result in "game over" for the truck alternator.. My 255AH battery bank will demand around 53AMPS DC current when first hit with 14.4VDC. This starts tapering back and in 30 minutes or so it will be down to around 8AMPS DC CURRENT.

    Also idling your truck motor for three to four hours is probably not all that great on your truck motor.

    I charge my 50% charge state trailer batteries with the on-board converter/charger being run by my 2kW Honda Generator setup using a RV30A-15A long adapter. This will get my batteries back up to their 90% charge state in around three hours of generator run time. Then I am good for the next day/night run off of the batteries.

    Battery science says if your want to fully charge your batteries using 14.4VDC it will take right at 12 hours if you are able to produce 17-20AMPs of DC Current per battery in your bank...

    Lets us know how you make out... Not saying it will not work out for you just something I would not put my truck alternator on the line. This alternator system is only designed to charge a single 12VDC START battery.

    just saying
    Roy Ken
  • You can probably estimate the amperage going through the #6 wire by measuring the miliamps voltage drop across the 6' length of the #6 wire.

    Put one lead on the battery terminal for the truck, and the other on the battery lead for the trailer. If you get a 0.001 volt drop and the ohms are 0.03, you can use math to estimate the amperage flow through that wire.

    Chances are that amperage and milivolt drop across the wire will be about the same.

    Most clamp on amp meters are only rated at AC amperage, because it influxes 60 times a second, and the meters can pick this up. DC clamp on meters are much more rare, and the Amprobe one that I bought cost $375 a few years back. Now I hear that Sears sells a clamp on DC meter that only costs about $85.

    It looks like you used the right things to get this project done. It should quickly fill your battery. However know that while the engine is at idle, there is not a lot of oil flow (volume) to the upper end of the valve train. So while you might not think it will do any damage to idle the engine for a hour, it can. Ford says not to idle their diesel trucks, even while hitching up the truck to the trailer.

    The gas trucks can handle more idling, but still it is not 'good' for them.

    That said, you can plug in your truck to the trailer for say 10 minutes, and some of the truck's battery power will go into the trailer. Then a short run of the truck will provide max amperage from the alternator. 10 minutes at 130 amps will provide 2 amp hours per minute, or upwards of 20 amp hours in 10 minutes.

    Your RV will consume 35 amp hours per day to just run the propane detector and CO detector, and refrigerator. Add lights to this, and it will be around 50 AH daily.

    You might also consider a solar panel. SunElec.com

    You can get a 100 watt solar panel that will also produce about 30 amp hours per day in full sun. Two advantages is that the solar panels shade the roof, and help it not get so warm inside.

    Have fun camping!

    Fred.