CheapHeat furnace conversion
I was wondering if anyone has converted their factory installed LP furnace to the CheapHeat system. Seems like a very practical system when connected to shore power. No worrying about running out of g...
Forum Discussion
Hi 2-MTnesters,
It's too bad the fan idea won't work for your RV.
Do you know what "wattage" is required to keep the RV warm and comfy in the worst of the cold weather? If so, here are the outputs of the three most common "cheap heat" systems:
The 30 amp DH-18 does 1920 watts or 6551 btu.
The 50 amp DH-37 does double that at 3840 watts or 13102 btu
The 50 amp DH-50 does 5040 watts or 17197 btu
These numbers assume 120 volt power with no voltage drop. I'd derate them by about 15% just to make sure the correct unit is chosen. In my climate the 30 amp unit would not be suitable since all the units are "either or" and can not be used to supplement the propane furnace, as far as I am aware.
I've highly modified my RV including spending $900.00 for insulated covers for windows, vents, skylights, side door and a "blanket" to block off the cab. The requirements have dropped from 343 watts per delta T degree c (190 watts per degree F) in the "stock" configuration to just 76 watts per delta T degree C (~43 watts per degree F)
What keeps me from the cheap heat system is the lack of fail over to propane heat. I RV in extreme cold (down to -37 C (-34 f)) and a two hour heating failure might freeze the RV up tighter than a drum.
It's too bad the fan idea won't work for your RV.
Do you know what "wattage" is required to keep the RV warm and comfy in the worst of the cold weather? If so, here are the outputs of the three most common "cheap heat" systems:
The 30 amp DH-18 does 1920 watts or 6551 btu.
The 50 amp DH-37 does double that at 3840 watts or 13102 btu
The 50 amp DH-50 does 5040 watts or 17197 btu
These numbers assume 120 volt power with no voltage drop. I'd derate them by about 15% just to make sure the correct unit is chosen. In my climate the 30 amp unit would not be suitable since all the units are "either or" and can not be used to supplement the propane furnace, as far as I am aware.
I've highly modified my RV including spending $900.00 for insulated covers for windows, vents, skylights, side door and a "blanket" to block off the cab. The requirements have dropped from 343 watts per delta T degree c (190 watts per degree F) in the "stock" configuration to just 76 watts per delta T degree C (~43 watts per degree F)
What keeps me from the cheap heat system is the lack of fail over to propane heat. I RV in extreme cold (down to -37 C (-34 f)) and a two hour heating failure might freeze the RV up tighter than a drum.
