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c-webster's avatar
c-webster
Explorer
Jan 08, 2016

Diesel engine upgrade

I see the ads for diesel engine upgrades, especially the Banks systems, but I'm not sure whether these systems would contribute enough to be worth the cost. (We have a 39' Class A 2008 Damon Astoria with a 340 HP Cummins Diesel engine and Allison transmission.) Can anybody give me the benefit of their experience?

16 Replies

  • Forget Banks if you want any value, whatsoever. I'm guessing the 2008 is a CR engine with a DPF and regen, if it's like the P/U engines. Is it a 5.9 or 8.3? The right chip or tuner will do a lot and also reduce egt. Good luck on better mpg... I've turned up diesels for over 40 years and it hasn't worked that way for me. You might want to call Mark Chappell @ tstproducts.com. Dial their number and select tech support. Mark was a Cummins engineer for about 32 years and he really knows the engines. I've used his products for 19 years and I'm happy. Craig
  • Add one guaranteed will not pay back anything. If you actually added power to your engine, the next weakest link in the power train can fail sooner. Especially if it is marginal to start with. To make more power will require more fuel. If you really want to improve fuel economy, lighten the load, drive slower. If you want more power, lighten the load, and be prepared to rebuild transmission, radiator, universal joints.
  • You might want to call Banks and ask about your particular model. If you have the engine size, and such handy, they can quote you a specific price for your RV.

    I installed the Banks system in their factory in Azusa CA back in 1998 on my 97 Ford based Bounder. They where about a hour drive north of my home in Orange County. They can handle about 4 installations a day in their factory location.

    I was impressed with the extra power. It was not 'night and day' but it did change. It did less frequent downshifts too.

    The potential problem might be extra HP means more heat, and that can mean the radiator will become overloaded on a long grade. My buddy installed a diesel engine on a train car (Knotts Berry Farm) and was told you need 8 square inches of radiator per HP. 100 HP = 800 square inches, or 24X24" X 2 layers was plenty.

    In your case, if the radiator gets dirty (and they do) you might have overheating problems. But keep it clean with a garden hose once a year, and you should be fine.

    There might be a increased size aftercooler for your engine. That might be well worth it, because the cooler air going into the engine, the more HP it will make, without adding heat to the engine. The larger aftercooler has larger air passages, and increased size (so the factory might get by with say 36" wide and 15" tall, while aftermarket might be 36" wide and 30" tall) will pass as much air with less air pressure drop or restrictions.

    Good luck,

    Fred.
  • You will never recover the cost in fuel savings. If it can prevent a single (severe) overheat it will pay for itself many times over. Usually all they are for is increasing power output - climb a hill faster, merge onto a freeway easier, etc.
  • Power is of more interest than mileage, since I doubt we could ever recover the cost based on fuel savings. We drive to CA every year to visit our daughter and her family, and more power on the steep grades isn't needed, but would be nice to have. (Monarch pass drops us down around 40-45 mph.)