The 2 pedestal dining table in my new Keystone 340fbh wobbles to the point that eating a meal on it is a disaster waiting to happen. I have thought about fabricating dimensional lumber and some sort of latching devices to secure the table to the wall below the picture window. Whatever I do, I want to design something that secures the table to the wall with something I can unlatch versus removing screws. There is about a 5" drop between the inside bottom edge of the table and the wall (bottom of Window frame). In one of my previous rigs, the bottom edge of the Window was above the table so I was able to secure the table to the wall with common Window locks. I am wondering what others have done to stabilize the table. Thanks, Steve

Try this:Take the support tubes out to the picnic table and give the side of each end a good whack with a 2X4.This will knock them slightly out of round, giving a tighter fit onto the sockets.

Id take it back and ask for a replacement since the unit is a 2013..

Steve_Martin wrote:Id take it back and ask for a replacement since the unit is a 2013..I hear you but it is just the way these tables are designed. I have had 3 of these and they all wobbled. I'm just looking to modify it to my liking. Thanks

They make a table-to-wall latching system. It is really a simple deal, tabs A & B into slots A & B. In fact, if you wish, I'll see if the hardware from my old wall hung table is still available. It can be yours, easily.

We put in a "Dream Dinette" system under our table and now the table is rock solid all the time. It changed from table up into bed with the push of one hand. It cannot be removed, it's either bed or table.Check out "Dream Dinette" and look at the many images, then call the company from your RV and have a tape measure with you. I am totally impressed with ours, an excellent product.

Dining Table wobble solution | Good Sam Community

Almot
Explorer III
Apr 20, 2013
I've read through all the suggestions - because have same problem, this is how these tables are designed - and it looks like important detail was overlooked. His window goes 5" BELOW the table bottom. The suggestion with piece of wood under the window might work. You can then bolt another piece of wood vertically on that board, so that it would reach the table, or come up with some Z-brackets. I'm only afraid that the other end will still wobble a little, because it is only supported in the middle. Don't know what to do with this other end.
Pauljdav
Explorer
Apr 20, 2013
I often think putting on folding legs on the table would be the best solution. Then I could even take it outside and have a table outside when needed.
Almot
Explorer III
Apr 20, 2013
Paul - I was thinking along the same lines, but was afraid to suggest. The design with 2 pedestals is inherently bad. Table needs 4 points of support. Folding table, even not rock-solid, might be better than the current one. But... 2 folding legs on the "entry" end of the table necessitates (gasp) removal of the benches and use of chairs instead.

You can get a pair of folding chairs. Table attached to the wall and resting on 2 legs. Saw this on one photo of trailer for sale. Some people converted their motorhomes this way, here, on this forum. With normal dining chairs. Missing storage was TAD compensated by adding very nice shelf/bookcase above the wheel well, under the table (this space was wasted). Search the forum.
therink
Explorer
Apr 20, 2013
Almot wrote:
I've read through all the suggestions - because have same problem, this is how these tables are designed - and it looks like important detail was overlooked. His window goes 5" BELOW the table bottom. The suggestion with piece of wood under the window might work. You can then bolt another piece of wood vertically on that board, so that it would reach the table, or come up with some Z-brackets. I'm only afraid that the other end will still wobble a little, because it is only supported in the middle. Don't know what to do with this other end.

What you are suggesting is exactly what I planned. Today I purchased a pair of compression type window locks and plan on using wood blocks on the wall and wood blocks on table underside. I will install the locks where the blocks meet to secure the table. I believe this will stabilize at least the wall side of the table, which is better than without. The locks/latches will may make it easier than removing screws to lower the table. Thanks
MegaJohn
Explorer
Apr 25, 2013
I've seen a post on here some time ago where someone removed the floor mounts and filled the voids with an epoxy or something. He claimed the table was much more solid after this mod. I don't have the link, but with some searching, maybe you can find it... or someone remembers and can provide a link to the discussion.

Happy Camping!
John.
motorcycle_jack
Explorer II
Apr 25, 2013
I'm sure if you look here you will find something you can use: Sierra Pacific
gmc6000
Explorer
Apr 26, 2013
Use a rubber mallet and pound them in hard. I had the same issue with my table. After driving the legs into the base and the table, they got very tight. They can still be removed, it just takes a little more wiggling.
camperpaul
Explorer
Apr 26, 2013
gmc6000 wrote:
Use a rubber mallet and pound them in hard. I had the same issue with my table. After driving the legs into the base and the table, they got very tight. They can still be removed, it just takes a little more wiggling.

By just wiggling the table while exerting downward pressure you will achieve the same result.

The sockets for the support tubes are tapered and the tubes are not.

Adding screws, brackets, etc. is like putting tape over a loose screw instead of just tightening it.
gmc6000
Explorer
Apr 28, 2013
camperpaul wrote:
gmc6000 wrote:
Use a rubber mallet and pound them in hard. I had the same issue with my table. After driving the legs into the base and the table, they got very tight. They can still be removed, it just takes a little more wiggling.

By just wiggling the table while exerting downward pressure you will achieve the same result.

The sockets for the support tubes are tapered and the tubes are not.

Adding screws, brackets, etc. is like putting tape over a loose screw instead of just tightening it.

On the older support tubes and bases, I agree. Something has changed with the new bases and tubes. The tubes and bases are tapered, but they are not a match fit.
camperpaul
Explorer
Apr 28, 2013
gmc6000 wrote:
camperpaul wrote:
gmc6000 wrote:
Use a rubber mallet and pound them in hard. I had the same issue with my table. After driving the legs into the base and the table, they got very tight. They can still be removed, it just takes a little more wiggling.

By just wiggling the table while exerting downward pressure you will achieve the same result.

The sockets for the support tubes are tapered and the tubes are not.

Adding screws, brackets, etc. is like putting tape over a loose screw instead of just tightening it.

On the older support tubes and bases, I agree. Something has changed with the new bases and tubes. The tubes and bases are tapered, but they are not a match fit.

In that case, smack the tubes with a 2X4 to knock them slightly out of round.

You don't want a perfect fit or a loose fit; you want an "interference fit".

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