DIY Tip: Stainless is not always stainless
I'm usually the last one to figure stuff like this out, but I thought I would pass it along anyway. Have you ever worked on a project and put a lot of time and money into doing a much better job th...
Forum Discussion
What I hate is when they deliver your TT to the dealer in the winter when there is salt on the road and they don't rinse it off. Doesn't take long before the zinc or cad (or cadmium alternative) plated fasteners and various parts & pieces along with any painted steel gets corroded. :M The coatings seem like they are only a few atoms thick at the most and only *look* like they are protected with a coating.
I replaced some of the factory nuts, bolts and self-tapping screw with S/S and found that some of self-tappers sheared off (small screws) in a short time and that I couldn't get nylock nuts off due to galling and had to use a cutoff wheel. Probably should have used lube on the threads. These were Ace Hardware grade and I would assume type 304.
I know that type 316 has better corrosion resistance due to molybdenum in it but not sure if it has better tensile or shear strength or reduced galling? One thing I know for sure is even the commonplace 304 fasteners are flippin' expensive. Next time I think I will go to our local Fastenal branch instead of a hardware store.
I replaced some of the factory nuts, bolts and self-tapping screw with S/S and found that some of self-tappers sheared off (small screws) in a short time and that I couldn't get nylock nuts off due to galling and had to use a cutoff wheel. Probably should have used lube on the threads. These were Ace Hardware grade and I would assume type 304.
I know that type 316 has better corrosion resistance due to molybdenum in it but not sure if it has better tensile or shear strength or reduced galling? One thing I know for sure is even the commonplace 304 fasteners are flippin' expensive. Next time I think I will go to our local Fastenal branch instead of a hardware store.
