The EW is a 2 stage controller. It has bulk and another setting that can be either abs or float. Conditions and seasons can be adjusted for.
EW settings via BFL13:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28677768/gotomsg/28680339.cfm#28680339It seems there is a need for a very short Vabs time for storage, where you are likely to hit Vabs early morning, and a possible need for while camping "depending" on a bunch of factors that are variable. In my case solar is only for camping and we use shore power for "storage" so smk's type of concerns for storage with solar are not an issue for me. I do have an adjustable voltage (manual) solar controller, so I can reduce the voltage in the afternoon if need be, but it is not on a timer. I have to be there, see what is happening, and do something about it. No big deal! :) I sure don't need to strap my laptop to the controller and do a bunch of geeky stuff which I would not be able to do anyway, not being all that computer-smart, in order to get my batts charged while camping! :) As it happens the Eco-Worthy MPPT has no time at Vabs. it drops to "float" (adjustable) as soon as the batts get to the high set point (adjustable) for absorption. Kind of strange, but you can set the float voltage as high as 14.5 to do the rest of the day. so for storage, with that controller you don't need a timer. Just set float at 13.x and it will do that as soon as it hits whatever you chose for Vabs (which could also be 13.x of course.) No timer needed there and you could set it up the first day and leave it like that as long as you want for storage.
I sure don't need to strap my laptop to the controller and do a bunch of geeky stuff Nobody does. When firmware (the geeky software that is "firmly" embedded into controller) is well composed, it does this all. I never connect laptop to my controller, don't feel any need. My controller display is enormously informational. Though, even with less informational display of Tristar you wouldn't have much need for a laptop after you've set it up. Some other people are having fun downloading all the weekly, daily etc graphs for output. Your Eco firmware has limited features, so it can't generate these graphs - no big deal. Some other limitations of this charger seem more important to me. Like those you mention in the end of your post - zero Abs time and thus the need to choose between either +14V for the rest of the day (I don't like this, be it storage or camping), or instant transition to +13V Float after it hits V Abs (acceptable for storage, and not good for when camping). No. The way the Eco-Worthy works is it has two adjustable voltages. The first is for how high it will get the batteries in the first place (absorb voltage setting) this can be set as high as 15v. the next setting id for Float voltage which goes from about 13 to 14.5v. If you want the controller to keep the batts high for any time after it gets them to your Absorb setting, you have to pick a high Float setting. But if you want to float at 13 you can do that. What you can't do is stay at Absorb once it gets there. And you can't do the real absorption time above 14.5 since that is as high as Float goes, so if you want time at 14.8 you can't have it. (my 6s are happy with that, so no problem for me--in fact I had to drop Float to 13.6 so they wouldn't lose so much water from overcharging during "high summer") If you are in storage and don't want it to get so high in the first place, just set your Absorb at 13.x. You could set Float to the same 13.x and have no drop at all.
Yes, you can do whatever you like for the situation. In Spring and Fall I set it to 14.8/14.5 and on nice days it gets to 14.8 late in the day and does a bit of 14.5 before dark. In mid-Summer, long days, that means it gets to 14.8 earlier and spends way too long at 14.5 so the batts lose water all afternoon, being overcharged. So I changed it to 14.8/13.6. That still got the batts to full (hitting baseline SG as confirmed by hydrometer, not just from Trimetric info) before they got drawn down again from camping activities from supper-time on. So it is not a bad thing to do the 14.8/13.6 routine on long summer "nice days" You don't go to a lower float as with "storage" while still camping and using the batteries to run things. I tried 13.2 at first and the Trimetric showed when a load came on, I lost the solar charging input at first and there was a draw on the batts until the solar could pick up the slack. So that is why converters are set a t 13.6 for "normal" when on shore power. Same thing when on solar while camping. You need that 13.6
Good luck!