Eternabond to Seal Window?

To add to Path1's very informative post, I had a passenger side window that I had to reseal 3 times. The basic problem was when the MFG cut the aperture for the window they did not use any tooling or NC equipment to control the opening which was over sized in the top fwd corner. Looked like someone routed it out free hand so when the window was installed only about 1/8 in of the flange was contacting the outer surface. After several mo's of travel the widow vibrated down and started to leak again in the top corner. I removed it and installed Al shims in the bottom of the aperture to keep the window from vibrating down. This worked for about 5 years and the window now has shifted back. Knowing what I know know I would measure the aperture to the window size to ensure there is enough flange for the butyl tape to seal. Secondly install shims on bottom and aft vertical side to insure window does not move if aperture is over sized.

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Remove window and re-seal the proper way.

re: - click here -

Note: Instead of silicone on its outer top lip, I'd use RVFlex instead. This stuff comes in white or clear.

Ok, i put eternabond tape over the top of all my windows and tapered the top corners to blend it in. I had a slght drip when i first bought the unit, at the windshield, so i ran a 1"strip over the top and then i just continued on, worked for me.

Golden_HVAC wrote:
Hi,

It would probably be a lot less expensive to go up there with some tub and tile sealant, and then caulk the upper side of the window. Perhaps the sides as well, but most have special requirements for the lower section, and putting sealant over the "Drain" holes is REALLY bad thing to do, and can cause water to be retained inside of the walls, rotting out the walls and overhead cab structure. SO if you are not sure about the difference between the parts that must be sealed, and the lower drain slots, don't cover both of them.

Fred.

x2.
Also, Captain Crack Sealant is great for just what you need to fix. Can usually get it at any marine supply store.

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If you're going to all the trouble of pulling the window first, just use butyl tape for the refit. Nothing works better than that old standby for such an application. Do make sure you get the real thing with butyl rubber in it.

But if you want to do it without taking the window off, Eternabond should work.

They make double sided eternal bond. Pull window clean frame and area, apply tape install window. Will take less then an hr. Did every window on my rig in an afternoon.

JKaz

Any exterior silicone sealant will do.Kwik Seal is a good stuff too, though not exterior. Fixed my leaky battery with this.

Yes on an Older RV . it was a relatively effective repair. looked Ok as the Window frame was already black.!

Hi,

It would probably be a lot less expensive to go up there with some tub and tile sealant, and then caulk the upper side of the window. Perhaps the sides as well, but most have special requirements for the lower section, and putting sealant over the "Drain" holes is REALLY bad thing to do, and can cause water to be retained inside of the walls, rotting out the walls and overhead cab structure. SO if you are not sure about the difference between the parts that must be sealed, and the lower drain slots, don't cover both of them.

Fred.