Forum Discussion
- SoundGuyExplorer
AFHauler wrote:
Thanks everyone, I am going to install 450 watts of solar and get a Honda 2000I for everyday use.2oldman wrote:
Good choice. When funds allow get another and run your air.
He can't. The OP's profile indicates he's here in Canada where Honda Canada offers the EU2000i without parallel capability ... there are ways around this of course but if the OP really thinks he may want to eventually parallel two EU2000i gensets then he'd be better off buying two EU2000i gensets in the US that are equipped with parallel ports. - 2oldmanExplorer II
SoundGuy wrote:
Yeah, using two extension cords. It's real simple, but I'm amazed at how many people go ahead and buy those expensive kits.
He can't. The OP's profile indicates he's here in Canada where Honda Canada offers the EU2000i without parallel capability ... there are ways around this of course
Now, if Honda removes the synching electronics for Canadian sales, that's quite different. I don't think they do that. - VeebyesExplorer IIFrom marine experience I'd be looking for some sort of sound shield material.
The problem I would think it that the genny needs to keep itself cool. It you put a box over it you will get overheating problems. To correct that you will need to install a fan in the box to draw air in & a large enough vent for the hot air to escape. This in addition to what ever you do about exhaust. - profdant139Explorer III've been doing some reading -- always dangerous! -- and thinking about imitating Sound Guy's box. It turns out there is a difference between soundproofing and sound absorbing materials. Soundproofing actually blocks the transmission of sound, like concrete or lead -- drywall is another example. Sound absorbing stuff blocks the reflection of sound -- things like foam or fiberglass insulation.
It seems like there should be a way to combine the two inside a box.
That is as far as my thinking has gotten -- still pondering. - SoundGuyExplorer
profdant139 wrote:
I've been doing some reading -- always dangerous! -- and thinking about imitating Sound Guy's box.
I'm surprised you didn't built a box like this long ago since you were involved in that discussion started by jauguston back in 2007. :h - profdant139Explorer III was deterred by the complexity of his design. I think yours is much more feasible and affordable.
- SoundGuyExplorer
profdant139 wrote:
I was deterred by the complexity of his design. I think yours is much more feasible and affordable.
FWIW you'll notice jauguston used a multi chamber exhaust baffle to incrementally reduce exhaust noise ... I did as well in my first interpretation but because I was using an already existing plastic box instead of one custom made for the purpose I ended up mounting the baffle external to the box because there wasn't sufficient room inside the box. It seemed to work well enough but it sure was ungainly hanging off the one end of the box and added a lot of additional weight so I cut it down to the single chamber you see in my pics so it can direct exhaust straight up and vent out of my Avalanche's storage compartment. Although his multi chamber design would logically seem to be more effective I can't say I noticed much difference myself between the two approaches. - profdant139Explorer IIAs far as I can tell, the most cost-effective sound deadening material is called Homasote -- it is sold under a variety of names. Essentially, it comes in half inch thick sheets, 4 feet by 8 feet, and it is compressed cellulose. It sells for about ten or eleven dollars a sheet. You could line the interior of a plastic box with this stuff, and it would not be too heavy, I think. (Obviously, there would have to be an air intake and an exhaust port, with baffles.)
The main problem with Homasote is that it is not weather-proof at all -- a little water and it turns to mush. The other concern is whether it is sufficiently heat resistant for the exhaust baffle -- I would guess it is not.
Maybe there is a cost-effective way to waterproof the cellulose sheeting? And to use something else for the exhaust baffle.
There are commercially available soundproofing materials available for exterior applications, but they are very expensive. - SoundGuyExplorer
profdant139 wrote:
As far as I can tell, the most cost-effective sound deadening material is called Homasote -- it is sold under a variety of names. Essentially, it comes in half inch thick sheets, 4 feet by 8 feet, and it is compressed cellulose.
Maybe there is a cost-effective way to waterproof the cellulose sheeting? And to use something else for the exhaust baffle.
I first tried a sheet product that sounds much like Homasote but it didn't work at all as it was way too heavy and crumbled easily. Any quiet box I've looked at online that's demonstrated excellent results has always used dense noise control barrier foam such as that product I link to earlier from West Marine. I have to admit I'm SO tempted to try it myself, except my wife would kill me if she knew I spent that much to buy a sheet of it. :E. As I mentioned earlier jauguston gifted me a piece of high temperature batting that I used for the exhaust box but had that not been available to me I think I'd have used Roxul stone wool, the only problem being I'd have had to pay for a whole bag of it when all I needed was a small piece. - profdant139Explorer IIFor the exhaust baffle, I think there is heat-proof insulation for home water heater chimneys -- it should not be too expensive. I should measure the temp of the exhaust area to see if there is a real fire danger.
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