Hitting bottom on driveways

If I don't go in or out at a sharp angle, I gouge the street. :-/

I used that style of wheel on a 94 Itasca Class C I had, mounted the to the trailer hitch. They worked very well. When I upgraded to a V-Cross TT I welded swivel casters on the back of it because it would drag. Thankfully my Ridgeline is tall enough not to have to do it

RoyB wrote:
I guess adding the STEEL ROLLERS on the rear frame wouldn't help any??


I have seen similar steel rollers added under utility trailers.


Roy Ken

Hi Roy. That one is a pretty good choice. Looks like its a little on the "ight Duty Side". I for sure think it would work on your Tent Trailer very well.

I have a faily "Steep Drive-Way" on our back Drive-Way. Its all been Black-Toped. And the "Actual Pad for the Motorhome" is Cement, and it also has a "Retainer Wall" on three side of the RV Port.

I have, and I use 6 inch "Skid_Whells on our Motorhome. I also kind of have a double wammy. As the slop of the Drive-Way stops right at the begging of the Cement, which then perfectly flattens out, which causes a nasty Low-Spot,entering into the RV Port. I have to take it very, very slowly.

The Opening of the RV Port is 13 Feet High, and our Motorhome is only 11ft 6 inches. You'd think it would be plenty of clearance. When I break the Crest it actually lifts the rear of the Motorhome by quite a bit. At the Sharpest Part, I can clean the Highest Item on the Motorhomes Roof, those Wonderful Vent Covers. I clear them by only two inches. Until the Motorhome completely flattens out, on our perfectly Flat & Level RV Port Pad. Then I have quite a bit of Clearance.

My 6 inch Skid-Wheels haven't done any damage to our Black-Top Drive-Way at all. But I sure have put some nice Groves in the Streets Black-Top. Maybe the other guy just needs some larger "Skid-Wheels".

Good Luck. Happy Travels. Dan & Jill & our two Small "YORKIE KIDS', that love to travel as much as we do.

Good ideas so far! I'm grateful!

That's more than a bit of concern with our Class A.
I'm thinking, if there is a next one it will have to have a trailing axle or dual axles or whatever.
We never though anything about departure angles and clearances when we bought.
Somewhere someone has put caster wheels back there. Not sure they might not hang up.

I added Super Springs. No more dragging.

Hi,

Welcome to the forums.

I have manual air bags.

I added a roller that fits the (unused) trailer hitch. It touches down 1/4 inch before the frame bottoms out.

I upgraded to larger diameter tires, but to get the dual spacing right that required new rims. Since doing so my roller has only touched down twice in twelve months.

I guess adding the STEEL ROLLERS on the rear frame wouldn't help any??


I have seen similar steel rollers added under utility trailers.


Roy Ken

Ah, the curse of Class C's. I'm not sure if there is anything you can do short of being more selective on the driveways you choose to navigate. I've found that taking them slowly and at an angle (where possible), mitigates somewhat the clearance issue. Some folks put on the urethane wheels but that actually makes it worse by reducing your clearance by a couple of inches. :S

Our 24 footer isn't too bad, when we do touch it is the bottom of the Reese hitch that scrapes which sounds a lot worse than it is. We've seen a lots the 30 something footers not only drag their tails but actually get hung up. Watch out for the large concrete tire stops often found in CG's as they don't budge when challenged by a mere Class C. :B