Inverter help

with just 2 batteries you need to get closer to 1000 watts max.

Not all inverters are made for the battery connected to the ground. Try removing the batteries from the RV to isolate.

Some inverters only provide half the rating to each outlet.

Ok and this is a good time to post the exact make and model of inverter(s).

time2roll wrote:
with just 2 batteries you need to get closer to 1000 watts max.

Not all inverters are made for the battery connected to the ground. Try removing the batteries from the RV to isolate.

Some inverters only provide half the rating to each outlet.

Ok and this is a good time to post the exact make and model of inverter(s).

I have 3 batteries. But you could be right, I may need more to power the RV.

The batteries are:
2: 12 volt 70AH
1: "High Max Rate" 12 volt 147AH

When wired in parallel, this should give me 287 AH, and an online watt calculator put it at almost 3,000.

And the inverters are both Cen-Tech.
1: 2000 watt continuous 4000 Peak
1: 5000 watt continuous 10000 Peak

And that's a good idea to remove the batteries. I'll try that tomorrow. Thank you.

Jhaw wrote:
I have 200 watts, and a 30amp solar controller. 2 RV deep cells and 1 High Rate Max solar battery. The controller shows they do about 10.5a/h in full light. Which is basically all day where I'm at.
I was having no problem using these inverters while hooking the inverter straight to the batteries. (Wired in parallel). I claimed they are full because I can watch movies on my Xbox, on my tv, and fully charge my phone and laptop batteries, along with using lights, and microwave, all in the same night. and also the control panel on the RV says full, it'll dip to 1/3 or less I'm assuming, but the next day it'll be full again.

you need a multi meter for volts and ohms and a digital amp power meter

these things have gotten really inexpensive, like $29 or less

if you do the math 287 total amp hrs, down to 1/3 you used 180 ampHrs
do you mean went down 1/3 used 90 ampHrs ? more likely possibility

it will take 10 or 11 hours at 10amps to recharge to full

what ever you take out takes at least 10 percent more to fill back up
it conversion process and heat loss

if its 180 amphrs use (which i doubt its that much)
no way to fully return that with only 200w of solar (but i don;t believe you used that much)

anyway it seems to be a moot point, if the inverter works via an extension cord to the xbox, but not with shore cord whole house
its not a battery problem, but a wiring problem,
most likely that inverter is not intended for plugging into a house type wiring circuit, it doesn't like the battery negative connected to the inverter ac output ground via the wiring

your choice becomes run dedicated cord circuit from inverter to point of use

or replace with a different inverter that can accept house wiring

One quick tip about installing an inverter.

Get 2 battery disconnect switch. Wire them both to your battery bank AFTER the fuse. The output of one goes to your converter. The output of the other goes to your inverter. AT LEAST ONE SWITCH SHOULD ALWAYS BE OFF !

Now run an extension cord from the outlet of the inverter to your shore power inlet.

The shore line works fine, just tested it. So it must be the neutral/ground issue people are talking about. Thanks for the help.

time2roll wrote:
Not all inverters are made for the battery connected to the ground. Try removing the batteries from the RV to isolate.

This I don't understand. Why can't he just use jumper cables to the inverter? What does the battery ground have to do with it?

2oldman wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Not all inverters are made for the battery connected to the ground. Try removing the batteries from the RV to isolate.

This I don't understand. Why can't he just use jumper cables to the inverter? What does the battery ground have to do with it?

The battery ground is connected to the frame as is the shore cord ground as is the inverter negative input. The inverter bonds the neutral and ground and hence the neutral is now connected to the inverter negative input. The inverter balks.

A battery that is unconnected to the rig with jumpers would be OK. Or the inverter bonding could be removed but that would have potential safety issues.

The OP needs to add a ATS or manual DPDT switch to the inverter output and the plug circuit.

My old Prosine allowed that to be done by the user. Didn't seem to matter which way it was. I wonder what the error light on the inverter is telling the OP...?

Whit your multimeter check for continuity in the trailer 120v panel between neutral and ground, when inverter and shore power is completely disconnected.
There should be none.
Only one bound neutral/ground which should be in the inverter.

But check the inverter troubleshoot section, to find what that blinking light means