Just curious - cold rear bathroom
Bathroom is the coldest place in my trailer. I doubt there is any easy DIY fix for this, just curious why. I know how careless they are at the factory when packing pink insulation wool under aluminum ...
Forum Discussion
We had inadequate heat output from our furnace in the kitchen area, even with outlet only about 4-5' from the furnace. The 4" duct goes from the furnace down into the underbelly space and back up to an outlet in the kitchen area. The duct they use is similar to that used for clothes dryers and has a rough wall that restricts flow and was also uninsulated under the floor. I pulled it out, replaced it with smooth wall semi-rigid aluminum duct (as in photo below and available at HD) and wrapped that with a 1" thick foil-backed blanket of insulation and re-installed the duct. I was able to do this from above but longer runs would require re & re-ing the underbelly material. IIRC, the overall length of the duct was around 10' overall.
This mod made a huge improvement in heat output. Our outlet in the bedroom was always on the too-warm side and was fed with a 4" duct. I replaced that with a 2" duct and now the bedroom and kitchen/living are both comfortably warm at about the same temp.
However, we rarely use the furnace now because I installed 3 permanent electric heaters that do an excellent job of heating the trailer. When it gets close to freezing, we use the furnace tho. so some heat will get into the underbelly space and keep the tanks from freezing plus make the floor warmer.
A photo of the new duct with insulation before installation is also below. Fishing the new duct through the joist spaces blind from above was not fun...
If you could live with the extra current draw, an electric recessed wall heater of 250-500 watts *might* be an option if you know how to run wiring concealed in walls and ceiling. King makes a fan-forced wall heater with adjustable tap settings starting at 250 watts.
This mod made a huge improvement in heat output. Our outlet in the bedroom was always on the too-warm side and was fed with a 4" duct. I replaced that with a 2" duct and now the bedroom and kitchen/living are both comfortably warm at about the same temp.
However, we rarely use the furnace now because I installed 3 permanent electric heaters that do an excellent job of heating the trailer. When it gets close to freezing, we use the furnace tho. so some heat will get into the underbelly space and keep the tanks from freezing plus make the floor warmer.
A photo of the new duct with insulation before installation is also below. Fishing the new duct through the joist spaces blind from above was not fun...
If you could live with the extra current draw, an electric recessed wall heater of 250-500 watts *might* be an option if you know how to run wiring concealed in walls and ceiling. King makes a fan-forced wall heater with adjustable tap settings starting at 250 watts.
