Time for a new top and sink. Any thoughts on removal of the existing countertop? Will it come out with damage to the drawer fronts and cabinet walls? Is it simply screwed in from below?

What type is it?Typically if it is laminant the sub straight is screwed or stapled down, laminant is then glued on.If it is solid surface it will be glued down with silicone.When I have removed both of my counter tops, i simply set my circular saw to make shallow cuts, cut the counter top, and pryed them up and carried them out in pieces. No damage.

I would strongly suggest you contact Georgie Boy to see what they say. I am sure there is as many tie downs and screwed/glued combinations as the mind can imagine.

donn0128 wrote:What type is it?Typically if it is laminant the sub straight is screwed or stapled down, laminant is then glued on.If it is solid surface it will be glued down with silicone.When I have removed both of my counter tops, i simply set my circular saw to make shallow cuts, cut the counter top, and pryed them up and carried them out in pieces. No damage.The existing is laminate and I was hoping you wouldn't say "laminate is then glued on". But that is a good suggestion to remove it by cutting shallow cuts. Thanks

Artum Snowbird wrote:I would strongly suggest you contact Georgie Boy to see what they say. I am sure there is as many tie downs and screwed/glued combinations as the mind can imagine.GB was bought by Coachman and I have sent them an email. Hopefully somebody is still around that remembers. Thanks

Have no idea how they build those units, but laminate is normally glued onto a substrate like MDF. Then the MDF is typically screwed into from below. I doubt the substrate would be glued down. Just look from underneath to see if there's screws. The laminate/substrate counter top will come out together as an assembly.There should be caulking all around the countertop perimeter which will need to be cut to break the seal, then completely removed before installing new caulking. (If it's silicone, silicone will not adhere to cured silicone.)When it comes to RVs, not much is straight, plumb, level or square as it should be. You should carefully check before cutting a new counter top. A template may help. If there is a wall at left and right hand sides of the top, you do NOT want to cut wrong or too short... The back wall may not be straight either - so check with a straightedge.Remove any drawers. It will probably help to remove cabinet doors (by undoing screws in hinges). If a range in there too, you should pull that out - but do NOT forget to reconnect the propane properly.Are you getting a new top pre-cut to size or buying an over-sized piece and trimming it?

kitchen countertop removal | Good Sam Community

myredracer
Explorer II
Jan 15, 2016
scotty46 wrote:
If properly prepared, formica/laminate can be glued right on top of another stable formica/laminate surface. I have done it before with good results. No need to tear up the cabinet tops.

Wouldn't that not work because of the existing stove opening? Seems to me raising the height of the top would leave a gap between the bottom of stove and cabinet.

Could perhaps fill in the gap with matching wood (if available) but if his counter can be easily pulled out (which it now seems) that's probably the easier way to go.
punomatic
Explorer
Jan 15, 2016
scotty46 wrote:
If properly prepared, formica/laminate can be glued right on top of another stable formica/laminate surface. I have done it before with good results. No need to tear up the cabinet tops.

Most laminate countertops in RVs are edged with vinyl molding that is T-shaped and fits in a groove on the edge of the substrate. If you add a layer of laminate, the molding doesn't cover the edge of the laminate. Been there, done that. It looked OK, but I would have preferred to have the edge of the laminate covered. OTOH, if you are going to self-edge the laminate, there's no reason not to go over the top of the old laminate.
DrewE
Explorer II
Jan 16, 2016
myredracer wrote:
scotty46 wrote:
If properly prepared, formica/laminate can be glued right on top of another stable formica/laminate surface. I have done it before with good results. No need to tear up the cabinet tops.

Wouldn't that not work because of the existing stove opening? Seems to me raising the height of the top would leave a gap between the bottom of stove and cabinet.

Could perhaps fill in the gap with matching wood (if available) but if his counter can be easily pulled out (which it now seems) that's probably the easier way to go.

On my motorhome, there's a gap there under the oven with the factory countertops. A bigger gap might be an improvement, as it would be easier to scare off the dust bunnies that like to frolic there where the vacuum wand can't bother them very much.
jmaotto
Explorer
Jan 16, 2016
I cut the original top back to the cabinet so that it would not visible. Then glued the new top on it.
scotty46
Explorer
Jan 17, 2016
My stove and sink rest on top of the formica/laminate as a drop in. Besides, the laminate is only 1/8th(est) of a inch thick. Beats removing all the plywood and other wood. Every project will necessitate some adjustments.
gatorcq
Explorer
Jan 18, 2016
I don't understand, why you do not remove everything first, look very carefully before you ask removal questions? Each rig is a little different.

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