Pictures of my dual GV2 battery setup.
I replaced the Group 24 battery (85 amp/hour) with a pair of GC2 batteries (215 amp/hour) from Sam's Club. I also used a 2 gauge wire to connect the two batteries. The battery box is from Century Pl...
Forum Discussion
ktmrfs wrote:SoundGuy wrote:Matt_Colie wrote:
Not only is Gordon right about "Where's the fuse?"...
Why would the OP need a "fuse" when no doubt that positive battery cable running back to the trailer first goes directly to a resettable circuit breaker, most likely mounted on the trailer's A-frame. That's the "fuse". I'd agree though, regardless of the colour of wire used I'd mark each as POS and NEG for ease of identification. :)
well, on the fuse. First, it's highly likely that the trailer fuse
1) is an automatic reset, which means it will open, close, open close....get the picture for a short
2) highly likely it is not rated to interupt the current that the battery bank can deliver and can end up not being a fuse but a welded shut contact
3) won't protect if the battery cable shorts BEFORE the trailer fuse.
On my trailers I have a appropriate sized and rated fuse at or very near the battery bank.
And second, I replace the typical factory trailer breaker with one that is NOT automatic reset, but manual reset.
This is seldom considered but those clicker type breakers are terrible. As you say, when there is a fault they heat and open over and over until the contact tips weld and then take out a circuit. I have repaired many wiring harnesses which melted down because of these breakers. They are cheap so that's the good reason they are in RV's.
