Question regarding changing my shore power hookup???

we saw a tt with a detachable cord next to us at a campground
advantages? no "mouse" hole, no tangles inside the tt compartment

disadvantage? stowage of a long heavy bulky cord. picture a water hose full of water!

im switching to a detachable cord, our cord keeps falling into the inside of the tt and other times we look back when towing and the cord is hanging out of the side of the trailer! the goofy little door doesn't lock anymore. but its the "mouse" hole that really irritates me

Don't be worried about replacements if something "goes wrong" with a twist lock connector either. They're easier to find than the weird RV style connectors. Every hardware store and big box home improvement will have them.

On a previous TT I replaced the mouse-hole setup with a 30 amp detachable shore power cord and here's what I can tell you. Photos are below. Some or all this may apply to 50 amps too. Cords can occasionally get wrapped up behind a mouse hole and only be partially pulled out - the manufacturers should be putting in a removable access to undo a trapped cord. On our first TT, we got the dealer to do this when we bought it.

The round mouse hole opening is a larger diameter than the detachable inlet housing. I found a mini cutting board at a local dollar store that was 1/8" thick. Even had a cross-hatch finish which was good for better adhesion of the caulk. Perfect! Used a jigsaw to cut a donut shaped adapter ring. I was able to access the interior side of the power inlet and screwed the adapter ring into some pieces of plywood behind the metal siding. Adapter ring and new inlet housing were sealed up with some Proflex caulk.

Note that the inlets are available in square or round and one may suit your application better. Hubbell also makes a 50 amp RV inlet which should be high quality but have no experience with one.

The black collar on a shore power cord (on Marinco at least) comes in a threaded version or 1/8 turn lock version. Have had both and the threaded one is a royal PITA. I found a new complete Marinco (Park Power) cord with the better locking collar for a really good price on ebay. Our current KZ TT came with a Conntek inlet and cord and has the threaded collar and the cord is now tucked away inside the TT somewhere for an extension cord (using a generator adapter) or for a spare if ever needed. After a couple of years the lid on the Conntek inlet would not stay shut and would flap in the wind while going down the road. Replaced it with a Marinco one also from ebay.

AFAIK, the Park Power, Conntek and Hubbell inlet housings all accept either the 1/8 turn locking or threaded collars.

The conversion kits that are available come with some parts that you probably don't need, like the 4x4" junction box. The power inlets are self-contained. You can use caulk instead of the gaskets. I found just the inlet on ebay, again, for a great price. If you can find just the inlet/housing, that's what I'd get. If you plan to buy a complete new cord, you obviously won't need the connector and boot that comes with the kits and could put the savings towards a new cord. If you buy a complete new cord, the cord's jacket will be factory sealed to the connector which is better than a retrofitted connector for keeping water out.

There are many offshore knock-offs on ebay and they should be avoided and make sure it's marked CSA or equivalent (not an issue with Park Power, Conntek or Hubbell of course).

After I did the conversion, there was a large cavity for the cord storage that was no longer needed. I made an accessible cover for it (accessible via an existing exterior hatch) and it became a great new storage spot for things that did't get used often. That was a great bonus that came out of the conversion.

When using a detachable power inlet, never connect it unless the power is turned off otherwise the contact surfaces will become pitted, leading to heat and a possible meltdown. Same thing applies for the plug at the shore power end. I saw a photo once of someone's power inlet that completely melted and nearly caused a fire. Not a pretty sight.

I recommend getting a 90 degree pigtail adapter to relieve the stress on the cord at the power inlet.

Our fifth wheel was equipped with only the "mouse hole" for the 30 amp shore power cable.
A real pain to deploy and re-stow.
Replaced the "hole" with a locking door having an opening about 6" x 6".
Much easier.

While you are at it, spend a few bucks and replace the cord with an SO cord that stays flexible in cold temps. You won't feel like you are dancing with a snake when coiling it up.

Unlike Pianotuna, I like twist locks and suggest that you find a real electrical supply place and have them get out a pair (one male, one female) of L14-50 connectors. You want a cable clamp versions of both plug and receptacle. L=means locking, 14=means 4wire 120/230 volt, 50=means the ampere rating.

Because these are twist lock, when properly engaged, they will not come apart. But when "untwisted", they are much easier to uncouple than straight blade 14-50 connectors.

That is all that is used in marine service, but most are L6-30. There are a few boats built that are L14-50. And still fewer transient marinas with 50 at the dock.

Matt

Hi,

I simply shortened my cord and then put on male and female ends. I don't like twist lock because if there is a problem it may be hard to source a replacement. The ordinary 50 amp can be had at Walmart and the like.

ramyankee wrote:
What do you actually call all the parts so I can do a search?

Marinco Park Power Kit has all the parts you need.

Before making the decision to waste all that space that the cable used, consider installing a locking hatch with a much larger door so you can reach your inside. If you add a tether that can be clipped behind the plug, you can prevent some entanglements. Wipe the cable as it is pushed in and apply talcum powder to prevent friction. I did this and got rid of the twist lock problems and never had to reach inside since. Cable is wiped clean easily, only pull out what is needed, no fire hazard with an in wall connection and I don't have to pick up the whole thing and find a place to store it. Yes, I'm in the minority here.