REFRIGERATOR DRAINLINE

I don't think there's much sunlight underneath the trailer. Every entrance and exit openings are sealed.

SULTINI wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
I hope you sealed the hole around the hose well to keep moisture from getting into the RV through it.

How does plastic turn to powder?

From UV from the sun. Only the part of the hose that is actually outside and exposed to sunlight will deteriorate. Everything not exposed will be fine.

FYI, I was just organizing the paper work file for my trailer. When I got to the refrigerator section with the installation and operating instructions it actually showed a picture of and how to install the drain line out of the trailer bottom. No trying to keep the old post going just justifying it to the nay sayers of the camping world.

In my world it will work I have 6 or 7 that I converted and no problems.

Another thing , every time you open a refrigerator door you let in hot air and moisture that could cause the same thing as you are talking about. In addition cold air drops so when you route the drain line to the bottom of the coach a little bit of cold air meets the hot air and it never reaches the coils. I don't buy every video I see either like that chick from FORD making a big deal about a stupid little drain line. Just like we are. I have been in the Construction Management/HVAC business for 50 years and worked with hundreds of engineers. No need to say no more.
NOTE: When you route the drain line through the refrigerator vent the temperature is the same ambient temperature as running through the bottom of the coach. Maybe higher because the bottom of the coach is not in the sun.

Let's rephrase "in the world" with out that plastic plug your fridge will not work properly. Condensation will build up inside the fridge from air infiltrating back into the box and freezing. Check the parts listing for the correct name of that plug. It does have to or should be in place for the fridge to cool properly. Keeping large amounts of ice from building up on the inside cooling fins.

The idea is that water has surface tension, and a small amount will keep a small opening sealed to air. Norcold used to crimp the end of their tubing, most people would cut the crimp off, then wonder why performance suffered, and the fins frosted faster.

Larmoll wrote:
.... It is not a check valve as we know it. That small hole in that plastic cap is sized to restrict air flow. Known in the engineering world as a check valve.

In my engineering world a "check valve" permits gases and liquids to flow in only one direction, preventing process flow from reversing. They are classified as one-way directional valves. A port with a tiny hole or restriction is a metering valve, i.e. carburetor jets. In lieu of a P trap a tiny amount of airflow is better than a lot.

Larmoll wrote:

fpresto wrote:

Larmoll wrote:
RV fridge drain tube should #1 have a plug in the end of the hose, believe it or not but that is a check valve.

I can't speak for Dometic but that is not the case for Norcold. I have a replacement 4 pack in my hand right now and they are certainly not a check valve. You can easily blow through them from either side.

That's what I thought too until I replaced it. It is not a check valve as we know it. That small hole in that plastic cap is sized to restrict air flow. Known in the engineering world as a check valve.

Air molecules are smaller than water molecules and more compressive. If water can get through, air can get through.

No way. In plan English it's a screen nothing more, to keep critters out. Why complicate things.