Hi all. Newb here. Just purchased a 5th wheel for the 1st time. Travel supreme express 2000 38'. Had 3 other bumper pulls in the past. Really like the trailer a lot but it needs some work. Some problems I found while inspecting it ( with no help from the lying sellers lol) and some I found after a few days (I guess they failed to mention). I want to start a thread to go through the process of my "rebuild". I have to replace roof, two rotten wall sections, toilet leak, some cabinet frames, and what ever else comes along. I will have lots of questions along the way and maybe teach someone else how to do something they don't know. I'll start out with some pic of my 5er. Click For Full-Size Image.Click For Full-Size Photo.1st thing thing I'am doing is trying to stop the leak with a temporary fix till I can get it in my shop. I couldn't see any places that looked like they would leak till I removed the old caulk. The caulk was very easy to peel off and I realized the water had seeped under it to get inside. Click For Full-Size Image.Further inspection reviled the hidden part of the roof that looked new (nice off white color and thick feel) the exposed part was just rubber (black color and very thin) most of the roof looked like it was flaking. Kinda looks like old cool seal someone put on it. Hard to see but the dark spot in this pic is the hole I found and the rotten wood showing. 1/4" hole that was under the caulk. Also, there is a 1/2" gap between the trim piece in the back and the trim down the sides. Click For Full-Size Image.Got to looking at that trim gap and found this. Whole back "cap" of tt was separating from body. Only explanation I can give is maybe the wet wood inside swelled up and pushed it away. Click For Full-Size Image.

I'am not able to really do a lot of work on it at the moment. But I'am piddling with it to try to just stop the leak. And tearing the inside out to dry it. It is SOAKED. So much neglect. I can tell you this much, if you think you have a leak, fix it right away. It will not magically fix itself. Or you will end up with something like this: Click For Full-Size Image.Click For Full-Size Image.Click For Full-Size Image.

I had one same year except only 33' so dual axle and not the triple you have. Might take a lot of work but the exterior pictures look like its worth saving. Edited after you posted the interior pictures-- ----You have a few years worth of work ! Randu

Hey DonJon99, best wishes with the rebuild. That is a mighty big project and I plan to follow your thread. Thanks for the great pics thus far.

Thanks for the support. This back corner, the roof, and a soft wall at the bedroom slide is the worst of it. Few minor things here and there. Found this kit for the roof replacement. Roof replace kitDoes this look like a good buy? Anyone used it? Comments?

When replying or posting use the link tool which is the 10th button from the left on the tool bar. The picture tool is 12th from left. Roof kit

Refurb / Repair 2000 Travel Supreme | Good Sam Community

westend
Explorer
Jul 19, 2016
I understand, it's a long process to get everything done. Give yourself a slap on the back for getting it completed.
DonJon99
Explorer
Jul 19, 2016
Wow. It's been two years since this. Time flies. About the time of my last post I found that my main slide out had a rotten corner. Both slide out headers that supports the roof were rotten mush. The front of the Rv had a leak in both corners of the roof and rot in the walls to floor in those areas. I was so disgusted. My job ended about that time so I worked 30 days straight on this mess for 14 hours a day. Got it where I could move it down road. Took it from tx to al to go on another job and didn't work on it till November. Spent about another two months pitiling on the insides. Got it ready to live in about February of 2015. Been in it since. About 1-1/2 years now. Will try to post my progress starting where I left off when I get some internet service.
DonJon99
Explorer
Jul 25, 2014
The part I was dreading is now over. Glueing down the sides. Couldn't figure out which way I wanted to do it. So I finally decided to use liquid nails and staples to install the luan to the frame. LOTS OF STAPLES. Like every 2". Worked great.

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From here I went ahead with the contact cement. I used 2 whopping coats and just beat it down with a rubber hammer. Seemed to work pretty decent. Couldn't really find a way to clamp the whole area down. There are more expensive products that I could have used, but I took the cheap route at 35.00 per gallon vs 170-210.00 per gallon.
EDIT. Now that it's been glued down a few days with the contact cement. Most of it seems to be holding, but there are a few small areas thAt are not holding good. Not sure if I would recommend it. Good enough for me, I see no bubbling or anything and I'll reshoot the loose areas with some liquid nails.
DonJon99
Explorer
Jul 24, 2014
Got a couple of weeks to work on this "wreck" while in between jobs so should be moving a bit faster. Got the rafters back in yesterday. With the roof decking.

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Today I mostly scraped and cleaned off the fiberglass on both sides to prepair for glueing it back down. That took all day. Glued down one small spot of fiberglass for a test run. Hopefully by tomorrow I will have the wall exterior complete. Hope so, it's a pain.

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DonJon99
Explorer
Jul 24, 2014
@Westend
Thanks for that advice. I've been trying to keep the same measurements while I'am rebuilding but some I don't have. Since you told me that, every time I add something or screw it down I put the cap on just to make sure it's right , lol. I have it suspended just behind the trailer and can easily swing it over when needed to make sure everything is right. Got it held up by 4 ratchet straps. One set is close, to move it in and the other set is a few feet back to move it out of the way.

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Since the last post I haven't had too much time to work on it but I got the 2 walls tore out and replaced. Also tore off the roof that was bad. Took out 2 rafters and about 45" of roof decking.

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westend
Explorer
Jul 04, 2014
DJ, got a tip for 'ya. When you're rebuilding the walls, make sure the whole back framing structure is the same square attitude and dimension as the back wall cap. There was a guy on the forum, not too long ago, that rebuilt the framing in the front wall and adjacent roof. When it came time to reattach the formed front cap, it was different, dimensionally, than the wall and roof framing (one was out of square) and he couldn't make it work.

Measure four times.....cut a lot.:B
DonJon99
Explorer
Jul 04, 2014
Thanks! I found some 1" foam board which seams to be rare around here. R-6 Jammed it in between the floor joists to block some of the air that seeps into the cargo bays. Then installed the decking. Glad that's over with. Onto the walls.

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Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jul 03, 2014
Looks like you are doing a great job. Did a rebuild on a 25' Prowler 5th wheel years ago. Lots of rot! Good call on the Kilz.
westend
Explorer
Jul 03, 2014
Attaboy, nice play on the paint!
DonJon99
Explorer
Jul 03, 2014
As of now, totals on cost are:
Storage: 185
Roof materials: 875
Wood paint foam screws: 309
Total: 1369.00