Replace converter/charger with PD9245C

I don't remotely understand why you would remove a battery disconnect, to just add a circuit breaker disconnect.


all grounds go to the vehicle frame.

my 12v negative goes to the negative bus bar in my power distribution panel.

LittleBill wrote:
I don't remotely understand why you would remove a battery disconnect, to just add a circuit breaker disconnect.


all grounds go to the vehicle frame.

my 12v negative goes to the negative bus barin my power distribution panel.

Except the monitor shunt to batt wire of course.

On the fuse, the RP fuses do not protect the wire so disagree with post about that

LittleBill wrote:
I disagree, it should be placed at the arrow.

if you have to isolate the battery circuit for whatever reason, you have now lost all 12v capability even if plugged into 120v.

a PD can also put out 48amps, thats a bit high for 10gauge.

I agree that the PD9245 should be connected at the arrow. The house battery is connected at 1, 2, AND 3 so the converter/charger should be on the opposite side of the disconnect switch. Putting it on 1, 2, or 3 permanently connects it to the battery, which makes the disconnect switch totally useless. However, I definitely would use either a #8 or #6 wire rather than a #10. (On a previous RV, I replaced the converter/charger to disconnect switch wire with a #4 to reduce voltage drop.)

I would not remove the disconnect to add manual circuit breakers. I will add a manual circuit breaker in lieu of an automatic breaker. There are circuit breakers at the isolator upfront, there are breakers at the disconnect switch and no breaker at the house battery. House battery was relocated and they likely saw no reason for a breaker on that end of the wire.


This is a new to me Raodtrek and trying to wrap my head around the reason for the disconnect. It appears the disconnect is to keep the house battery from discharging when not in use?

Monitor shunt? Wonder if I have one??

Hmmm, go to do the PD case to chassis ground and the lug for the wire is rather small, no mention of a ground wire size?? What am I missing??

Good Lord JJRBuss,

I didn't think this could be all that difficult, I have only been doing this stuff about 60 years. Before I got my ship's engineer' licenses, I sailed as electrician. Since I retired, I have been working on other peoples expensive boats and a few RVs.

You do not want the converter/charger to ever be isolated from the house bank.

What you do want is the house distribution to be completely dead when that contactor is open (disconnect is off). This is for both convenience and safety.

If the converter is connected directly to the house bank, that will provide the best performance.

As to wire size, #10AWG is actually good 55amps Continues in open air if the insulation is 75°C Like THHN. That wire is what you can get at Lowes Depot. Even with the 45Amp rating of the PD9245, there is not much chance that you will be able to load it that heavy unless you house bank is a couple or three 8Ds that are really very dead.

The negative lead from the converter should be the same size and either to the house bank proper or a really solid ground.

If you look at most wire size guides, they are not inclusive and are usually not the best sizes for such situations.

And yes, you can ground the PDs ground lug to the coach chassis, and that is not a bad thing to do, but if the PD is plugged into a grounded outlet, it is not really required. It is a safety thing mostly. That should carry very little current.

Matt

Your right it should not be all that difficult, but I confuse easy now and my buddy is not around to give it the once over. I was not sure about isolating the converter, but isolating it did not seem right for same reason?? I did use AWG 6 for what I added, only about 4 feet of wire so not a big expense and I have the 50 amp manual breakers.

I put the converter negative directly to the van frame, seems that out in the weather it should be coated with something, not sure what to use?

The smaller ground lug was a hint, I could find no reference to the wire so used #10, directly to the frame. Again seems I should coat that connection also but not sure what to use if anything??

Plugged it in, no smoke, the local power plant did not blow up so maybe ok LOL

Jjrbuss,

Congratulations.

I always state the smallest wire size I think is safe because I have had some jobs where the copper was most of the cost of the job. But, as I used to tell clients - "You only have to buy the copper once. If you don't buy enough, you will be paying for that forever."

Where I had connections that I were exposed, I did one of two things.
Either I made sure all the connections were full of silicon grease or other stuff to prevent internal corrosion.
Or
If it was something that some never have to come apart again, I use liquid electrical tape. I think you can get it a big boxes, if not then Amazon for sure.

Matt

Thanks, greatly appreciated.