Forum Discussion

Ribeye67's avatar
Ribeye67
Explorer
Oct 15, 2014

Roof upgrade

I recently bought a 1984 Komfort 22T Travel Trailer and want to resurface the roof. It looks like the roof type is corrugated aluminum siding material (basically the same as the back side but continues up the roof). A previous owner had coated the roof with some kind of material that has become brittle and is cracked and separating on the corner with the walls.

My question is, can I install and EPDM roof over the top of the corrugated material? If I can, I would need to anchor the ends of EPDM with a strip of aluminum at the front and back since there isn't a strip there now. There is a strip on the sides to anchor with.

Are there any other suggestions?

I would really like to not have to worry about leaks, and the roof I have now makes me think it is going to leak like crazy (although the inside ceiling looks fine to me). I am an avid DIY type and plan to do the work myself. However, I am new to owning an RV.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

6 Replies

  • I don't know how I could find out what was used to coat the original roof. It looks like a chalky, brittle, off-white material. I may just have to see how it goes.

    Thanks for the tip on the AC gasket and refrigerator. This should be interesting. Hopefully I can find the parts.
  • Ribeye67 wrote:
    Thanks for the suggestions. I guess I will look into a coating. I will:

    1.try to break off or remove the brittle and pointed pieces at the edge or around cracks

    2. scrub off the moss like stuff that was trying to grow in some places and any other dirt I can get off

    3. remove the vents, AC, antenae, and plumbing vent caps (all vents and caps need replacing anyway)

    4. recoat with the coating material

    5. re-attach of the parts removed and use new sealing mastic

    6. seal screw holes and edgest with self leveling sealant

    Then I think I should be good to go (I think). Removing and re-sealing the roof penetrations will really make me have peace of mind.

    Is removing the AC to re-seal going to be difficult?


    Find out what the roof material is exactly, so you can use the right stuff to fix. Some require better cleaning than others.

    A/C gasket. Plenty here about getting a/c off and on and gasket in place. When I did mine I didn't have any help, so didn't want to take it off the roof to ground and then back up... so I just rolled a/c over on its back. Be careful of the plastic "air louvers" on the inside, they break easy. Find a manual on your a/c model before you take off, so you have a good idea what is going on.

    When you take your frig cover off, take a good look inside chimney thing with flashlight. I was surprised how much junk made it past the screen. Wiggling a coat hanger back and forth I was able to get pretty clean and vacuum up debris down below. And for what is worth I noticed my frig screws were rusty as they sit below grade where water sits sometimes so I replaced with stainless.

    (edit part) I got my a/c gasket from first rv dealer I came across. Found out later that I paid way to much. Available on-line for much less. I didn't think there would be that much of difference on something so common as a/c gasket, but there was.
  • Thanks for the suggestions. I guess I will look into a coating. I will:

    1.try to break off or remove the brittle and pointed pieces at the edge or around cracks

    2. scrub off the moss like stuff that was trying to grow in some places and any other dirt I can get off

    3. remove the vents, AC, antenae, and plumbing vent caps (all vents and caps need replacing anyway)

    4. recoat with the coating material

    5. re-attach of the parts removed and use new sealing mastic

    6. seal screw holes and edgest with self leveling sealant

    Then I think I should be good to go (I think). Removing and re-sealing the roof penetrations will really make me have peace of mind.

    Is removing the AC to re-seal going to be difficult?
  • http://www.inlandcoatings.com/ I'm happy with this stuff...RC 2000 and look at their "case studies". And also check out Dicor products. Dicor also has a good vid on doing roof.

    This rc 2000 stuff I like because it gets into tiny cracks better than Dicor IMO. Hense also takes longer to dry because it is more runny.

    Use disposable gloves and brushes and put on 2 coats after first is completely dry. One gallon (smallest size) covered one 5th wheel and one 26 foot class C two coats.

    I did my metal roof of my shed year prior to see how it would hold up before doing RV's. 2 light coats much better than 1 heavy coat.
    Hate the price though. Around $100.00 a gallon.
  • Metal if it does not have holes in it is great. I would look at recoating it with something white that does not get hard and crack. EPDM needs to be glued down and it to wood I think most often.
  • years back when I lived in a house trailer we would gob on some white stuff on the seams. Kool seal? maybe.
    if I was putting a membrane down I would certainly consider TPO instead of rubber.
    bumpy

About DIY Maintenance

RV projects you can tackle on your own with a few friendly pointers.4,385 PostsLatest Activity: Aug 08, 2025