RVTORESIDENTIAL FRIDGE ?

Ivylog wrote:
Having resisted going residential because we boondock often I finally gave up on my NoCold 1200 recently and all of your questions/concerns will be answered HERE. I did not post my costs so I'll do that here:
Scratch/dent 21 cuft refer.....$500
4 new AGM 115 AH batteries......300
1000W PSW inverter.................175
100 amp smart charger.............200
Transfer switch and cables.......100
Total..................................$1275

I spent more than that on my 1200 over the last several years.

Could you tell me where did you buy those 4 AGM batteries and what brand are they,,
I have never seen anything priced that low
Thanks

I am so glad I asked the question. Figured I was missing or misunderstanding. So how many amps does a small residential fridge use? Or how big an inverter do I need and ow long could I run until I drained batteries? My Dometic is on it's fifteenth year so am curious. Thanks for the education.

Having resisted going residential because we boondock often I finally gave up on my NoCold 1200 recently and all of your questions/concerns will be answered HERE. I did not post my costs so I'll do that here:
Scratch/dent 21 cuft refer.....$500
4 new AGM 115 AH batteries......300
1000W PSW inverter.................175
100 amp smart charger.............200
Transfer switch and cables.......100
Total..................................$1275

I spent more than that on my 1200 over the last several years.

I use an electric chest freezer as our beverage cooler while boon docking. I start out with cold beverages and 20 lbs of ice and 20 lbs of water.. I can't let it run over night at the house, it would freeze everything solid. I let it run when the generator is on (mornings and afternoon) while boon docking. I have more issues with freezing than I do with warm beverages (once). With 60 lbs plus pounds of weight even on warm days (90f) I can go a day between turning it on. On cool days (60f)I can go 5 days and still have 33f water.

If you can withstand wide temperature swings, keep the fridge full, occupy extra space with ice, and limit door opening, it's doable. A manufacturer would not want to do this, but an owner, weighing his options and benefits might.



I think the freezer uses 200-300 watts,

Oasisbob wrote:
I believe going to a residential fridge is a bad choice for the following
Lowers resale value
usually requires cabinet mods
How do you keep the door closed while driving?
How do ou power this during boon docking or driving?
Still it does seem a whole lot cheaper in the short run. I notice many folks doing this. I totally admit I may not be understanding. What am I missing here? How haveyou all dealt with my above concerns?

Good afternoon. I suppose it would depends on who you talk to.

Here is my input, one at a time.

Lowers resale value

For us it would be just the opposite. If we were to buy a coach with a propane fridge we would have to factor in the cost of converting it to residential as a propane fridge would be a negative for us.

usually requires cabinet mods

I would say ALWAYS requires some cabinet mods, but really not a big or expensive deal.

How do you keep the door closed while driving?

Velcro strap through the handle. 60 cents.

How do ou power this during boon docking or driving?


Our motorhome came equipted with an inverter. Residential fridges use very little power so no problem running it off inverter.

How do you power this during boon docking or driving?

Again. We use the onboard inverter while dry camping. Three good size solar panels will provide all the power the fridge needs.

I would also suggest adding a couple of batteries though as there will be periods of low sunshine. Saves running the genny a lot. We run our genny at meal times for microwave and toaster use when dry camping.

Good luck with the decision process. .

My first project after the holidays will be to remove the absorption fridge and replace with a residential. Will not have to modify any cabinets and as I always stay in a campground with power I will not immediately install an inverter.

Oasisbob wrote:
I believe going to a residential fridge is a bad choice for the following
Lowers resale value
usually requires cabinet mods
How do you keep the door closed while driving?
How do ou power this during boon docking or driving?
Still it does seem a whole lot cheaper in the short run. I notice many folks doing this. I totally admit I may not be understanding. What am I missing here? How haveyou all dealt with my above concerns?

JMHO, but I think you are missing everything.
There is no reason to believe it lowers resale value but it likely does not raise it either. It is either something someone wants or does not want.
The doors are latched, snapped or velcro'd shut depending upon the fridge used. There is no issue here.
The fridge needs an inverter but that's not an issue either unless you make it one. If you are a die hard dry camper then this might not be the best choice but adding solar and some additional batter power could make it every bit as viable as a (soon to go up in flames) propane fridge. While driving the engine alternator charges the batteries and the batteries power the inverter and the inverter powers the fridge. What could be easier?
I am not an off-the-grid guy but I do, from time to time, spends up to 2 weeks dry camping. Yes, I have to run the generator from time to time but since I am not paying for a campground I generally come out ahead when comparing camp site $$ to dry camping plus generator $$.
The REAL litmus test is I would never have been able to get my bride to agree to full time with an RV fridge so having a full size GE profile side-by-side fridge with filtered ice and water through the door was a real plus for us and an RV fridge would have been a non-starter!

Oasisbob wrote:
I believe going to a residential fridge is a bad choice for the following
Lowers resale value
Not for us. We would pay more for a unit with a residential refrigerator over one with an absorption type
usually requires cabinet mods
Our coach came with one, no mods necessary, however, many times a small residential refrigerator will fit with minimal changes.
How do you keep the door closed while driving?
Simple velcro strap. Same one we used on our old Norcold...
How do ou power this during boon docking or driving?
We don't power it while driving. It starts the morning at a nice, cold, 34 degrees in the refrigerator and -10 in the freezer. Will hold up all day with no power. If I had to, I could run the generator or use the inverter to power it.
Still it does seem a whole lot cheaper in the short run. I notice many folks doing this. I totally admit I may not be understanding. What am I missing here?
What you are missing is the good reliability track record of residential refrigerators. The excellent cooling day after day, regardless of ambient temperature. The, usually, better more efficient use of space. The lack of need for LP (how many refrigerator fires do you hear about in homes caused by the refrigerator?) and not having to worry about whether the LP refrigerator is running when fueling...
There are many more reasons, from styling and interior features (lots of bins and drawers, milk and juices in the door) to ice (crushed and cubed) and chilled water in the outside door panel. How haveyou all dealt with my above concerns?

There are many folks that will swear by their absorption refrigerators...we don't. Won't ever go back to them. And cost? The residential refrigerators, depending on the features, are not cheaper. The one in my coach is identical to the one we just put in our remodeled kitchen in the sticks and bricks; $3299 on sale.

You need to install a inverter to power the fridge while off the grid. You also need two or more batteries. Residencial fridge cool much faster and recover much quicker. I'm not sure if it lowers the resale value. Many people prefer them, including me.