Tip on the right tool
Anybody else's have an issue with replacing the hot water tank drain plug. My issue is keep the drain plug started in straight. Simple I know. Lol Perhaps a pair of vice grips would work bette...
Forum Discussion
SidecarFlip wrote:Lantley wrote:
Ditch the plugs altogether and put a valve in lieu of the plug.
Once installed no tolls required.
All well and good on an Atwood / Dometic. Not good on a suburban. The tank will perforate after some usage.
Not really that good on Atwood.
Atwood drain hole is only 1/2" which makes flushing crud/scale out harder.
Valve restricts opening even more so.
And those brass drain *****...1/8" hole
OK for routine DRAINING.....but flushing crud/scale need to completely remove ANY plug/valve/pet-**** and POWER Flush
As for Suburban....OEM anode is Magnesium BUT Suburban offers optional Aluminum which will work and not react with microbes that can cause that sulfur smell like the Magnesium can.
Either on....
Clean up drain hole threads using a pipe nipple (Or tap if you have one)
Atwood 1/2" NPT Brass
Suburban 3/4" NPT Steel
