I'll try to make things clear... yesterday I removed my drain plug on my Suburban 6 gallons water heater (2011 model w/ pilot, no DSI) and O.M.G.... so much crap, rust and more have poured out of the tank!! I don't use my camper that much during the season, in fact only during weekends, so between each trips the water remain stagnant inside the tank many days... So I'll take time to drain my water heater between each use now.I want to replace the drain plug which is a 1 inch head with 3/4 inch thread for a tool-less drain valve... moreover my factory anode is completely worn (about 1/8 inch thin now!) so I need to replace it too. I want to keep the anode because it extend water heater life I think, except if people have different experiences...Camco offer an anode combined with a tool-less drain plug, but only 1/2" size thread (for Atwood heaters).Do you know if another company offer the same kind of device but with a 3/4" size for the Suburban's??Or maybe I can fit a brass reducer maybe from 3/4 to 1/2 ??Anyone have a DIY experience to share?Thank you very much!

Anode rod and drain plug is a one piece assembly.Drain plug has a steel rod attached and then the anode material is formed around that steel rod.Remove drain/anode rod between trips to drain/flush water heater and to clean off anode rod.Forget about easy drain via a pet-cock design etc.And that Atwood anode rod........aftermarket rip off cause Atwood WHs don't need an anode rod and are not recommended by Atwood.That's whay they are not a problem.......anode rod not needed/necessary so petcock drain works OK. Personally I prefer draining and flushing as a petcock type drain is too small to get all the crud out.

I don't think brass is compatible with aluminum.

tvman44 wrote:I don't think brass is compatible with aluminum.Press/Temp Relief Valves are brass.Atwood is aluminum alloy tankSuburban is steel glass-lined tank

If you drain the water heater it will have a little bit left in the bottom of the tank. Because this water does not make contact with the anode, the anode cannot protect the tank. It is better to either leave the tank full with a good anode or completely drain and blow out the tank - which isn't easy.I would leave it full of water.

I found two replacement anode for my Suburban...PN# 232767 magnesium rodPN# 232768 aluminium rodThe magnesium is actually back order for a while, but the aluminium is available... did the aluminium will do the trick or not? Many plumbery sites recommend to use aluminium when magnesium last not long enough... I can't tell if magnesium last long because I am the second owner and I don't know if it's the factory anode or not...

Water header 3/4" anode with drain valve (Suburban) ?

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 17, 2014
Anode rod and drain plug is a one piece assembly.
Drain plug has a steel rod attached and then the anode material is formed around that steel rod.

Remove drain/anode rod between trips to drain/flush water heater and to clean off anode rod.

Forget about easy drain via a pet-cock design etc.

And that Atwood anode rod........aftermarket rip off cause Atwood WHs don't need an anode rod and are not recommended by Atwood.
That's whay they are not a problem.......anode rod not needed/necessary so petcock drain works OK. Personally I prefer draining and flushing as a petcock type drain is too small to get all the crud out.
tvman44
Explorer
Sep 17, 2014
I don't think brass is compatible with aluminum.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 17, 2014
tvman44 wrote:
I don't think brass is compatible with aluminum.

Press/Temp Relief Valves are brass.

Atwood is aluminum alloy tank
Suburban is steel glass-lined tank
ScottG
Nomad
Sep 17, 2014
If you drain the water heater it will have a little bit left in the bottom of the tank. Because this water does not make contact with the anode, the anode cannot protect the tank. It is better to either leave the tank full with a good anode or completely drain and blow out the tank - which isn't easy.
I would leave it full of water.
vlopddap
Explorer
Sep 18, 2014
I found two replacement anode for my Suburban...

PN# 232767 magnesium rod
PN# 232768 aluminium rod

The magnesium is actually back order for a while, but the aluminium is available... did the aluminium will do the trick or not? Many plumbery sites recommend to use aluminium when magnesium last not long enough... I can't tell if magnesium last long because I am the second owner and I don't know if it's the factory anode or not...
robatthelake
Explorer
Sep 18, 2014
A Sacraficial Anode is Exactly that A Sacrafice! It is used to protect the Suburban Brand Water Heaters! I would not be worrying about it one iota! If it melts away in six months or three Years ,it is doing what it was designed to do and that is protect that expensive Water Heater from the Harmful elements that are present in the Water!
I tried one of those Combination Anode ..Easy Drain models once. it plugged up with so much gunk that I had to remove it to drain the Tank anyway. So I tossed it in the Scrap Metal Bin and replaced it with the proper one from Suburban!
vlopddap
Explorer
Sep 18, 2014
Okay, but what about aluminium -VS- magnesium??

All local reseller in my area (and also Amazon Canada) only have the aluminium in stock, when I think the factory anode is magnesium... so what?
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 18, 2014
Magnesium is standard OEM. It will dissolve quickest under all water quality conditions. But it can react with microbes in water and cause a sulfur smell.

Aluminum is optional OEM. It will last longer but can accumulate deposits on rod which can make it difficult to remove from drain hole.

Your choice which one to use.
coolbreeze01
Explorer
Sep 18, 2014
"So I'll take time to drain my water heater between each use now."

The aluminum will be fine for now and you can shop for magnesium at your leisure.
24fb_freedom
Explorer
Sep 18, 2014
this might help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcxHIFKLVbc