I'll try to make things clear... yesterday I removed my drain plug on my Suburban 6 gallons water heater (2011 model w/ pilot, no DSI) and O.M.G.... so much crap, rust and more have poured out of the tank!! I don't use my camper that much during the season, in fact only during weekends, so between each trips the water remain stagnant inside the tank many days... So I'll take time to drain my water heater between each use now.I want to replace the drain plug which is a 1 inch head with 3/4 inch thread for a tool-less drain valve... moreover my factory anode is completely worn (about 1/8 inch thin now!) so I need to replace it too. I want to keep the anode because it extend water heater life I think, except if people have different experiences...Camco offer an anode combined with a tool-less drain plug, but only 1/2" size thread (for Atwood heaters).Do you know if another company offer the same kind of device but with a 3/4" size for the Suburban's??Or maybe I can fit a brass reducer maybe from 3/4 to 1/2 ??Anyone have a DIY experience to share?Thank you very much!

Anode rod and drain plug is a one piece assembly.Drain plug has a steel rod attached and then the anode material is formed around that steel rod.Remove drain/anode rod between trips to drain/flush water heater and to clean off anode rod.Forget about easy drain via a pet-cock design etc.And that Atwood anode rod........aftermarket rip off cause Atwood WHs don't need an anode rod and are not recommended by Atwood.That's whay they are not a problem.......anode rod not needed/necessary so petcock drain works OK. Personally I prefer draining and flushing as a petcock type drain is too small to get all the crud out.

I don't think brass is compatible with aluminum.

tvman44 wrote:I don't think brass is compatible with aluminum.Press/Temp Relief Valves are brass.Atwood is aluminum alloy tankSuburban is steel glass-lined tank

If you drain the water heater it will have a little bit left in the bottom of the tank. Because this water does not make contact with the anode, the anode cannot protect the tank. It is better to either leave the tank full with a good anode or completely drain and blow out the tank - which isn't easy.I would leave it full of water.

I found two replacement anode for my Suburban...PN# 232767 magnesium rodPN# 232768 aluminium rodThe magnesium is actually back order for a while, but the aluminium is available... did the aluminium will do the trick or not? Many plumbery sites recommend to use aluminium when magnesium last not long enough... I can't tell if magnesium last long because I am the second owner and I don't know if it's the factory anode or not...

Water header 3/4" anode with drain valve (Suburban) ?

vlopddap
Explorer
Sep 18, 2014
ScottG wrote:
If you drain the water heater it will have a little bit left in the bottom of the tank. Because this water does not make contact with the anode, the anode cannot protect the tank. It is better to either leave the tank full with a good anode or completely drain and blow out the tank - which isn't easy.
I would leave it full of water.

I would admit I were concerned about your advice but I just checked tonight with a flashlight (inside the drain hole) and I don't know what brand of water heater you actually got, but on my Suburban the drain plug is perfectly flush to the lowest point of the tank so when you remove the drain plug and let drain for a few minutes, there's absolutely NO TRACE of water left inside the tank.

BTW, I just ordered the factory aluminium anode from Suburban over Amazon Canada because I just realise by checking some picture on the internet than my anode is actually 100% worn and it only left the metal shaft in the middle... no more magnesium!! Damn!!
cpaulsen
Explorer
Sep 20, 2014
I use the magnesium in mine and change it every year....about 9 bucks at an rv parts store. Before full timing....I always drained my unit when coming back from using it. It is a Suburban 10 gallon.
Highbeam
Explorer
Oct 06, 2014
If you leave it full all the time it will freeze and crack.

My 2012 suburban has a sump of water that can't drain all the way.
Escargot
Explorer
Oct 20, 2014
vlopddap wrote:
Okay, but what about aluminium -VS- magnesium??

All local reseller in my area (and also Amazon Canada) only have the aluminium in stock, when I think the factory anode is magnesium... so what?

Suburban recommends magnesium anode UNLESS it doesn't last one year, in which case it recommends alumnium.

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Water header 3/4" anode with drain valve (Suburban) ?

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