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jfskeet's avatar
jfskeet
Explorer
Jul 03, 2018

Window awning install on 2018 Class A

After some brutal heat the last trip out, we decided we needed a window awning on driver side window. Got a perfect match from Shade Pro. Getting ready to install tomorrow and after reading instructions , it say to make sure you screw in to the structure. I am positive I will not hit structure with most of the 18 rail mounting screws.
They said if you don't hit, use molly rivets. Have any one installed with just screws into the fibreglass? I watch a couple of you tube video and they just screwed into fiberglass,.

What did you folks do with your install.

Thanks for info in advance
jfskeet
  • Assuming you also put a good bead of caulk under the awning strip where the screws go in and then caulked over the screw heads to ensure no water leakage, the caulk will help hold everything in place for years to come.
  • Well , I finished install of window awning last weekend. After talking to tech at dealer, decided to go with the screw method . It had 18 truss head screws in the mounting strip. The shell was fairly thick fiberglass with a thin metal backing. All screws gripped well. Worst part was attaching arm supports as controls for the Spyder controls were in back of arm location. But all went well, took about 90 minutes start to finish.
  • I just took off 3 window awnings from my 95 Bounder. They went on in 1997 and stayed secure. All the screws on the arms were stripped and weren't holding any thing. BUT......the installer used clear house calking on the plastic ends that required a lot of effort, with a putty knife, to pry lose from the fiberglass.

    Richard
  • Thanks for the idea, but no way I would thru bolt to the interior.

    Never saw a factory window awning thru bolted.
  • If you can get even a couple of the fasteners all the way through the wall and secured with a fender washer and nut, it will be very secure. Any chance you could hide the fasteners behind a curtain or valance or even inside a cabinet?

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