2500HD Towing

2500 3:73 rear end, 3500 4:10 rear end.

Why don't people actually weigh their rig loaded instead of using ''dry weight'' which is of no value. Yes weigh your trailer as you would use it and KNOW where you stand and what you need. Most 5ers, especially toy haulers exceed the rear axle weight of most 3/4 ton trucks IMO.

jtall2671 wrote:
I am told that the only difference between my truck and a 3500 is 1 spring and tires.JT

This is true (including wheel rims). It has been documented by part number comparisons between a 2500 and 3500 for the year of my Silverado D/A at least.

That said, I will not address the weight comparisons so I don't have the weight police breathing down my neck.

Breath mint, anyone?

Too much trailer, not enough truck.

My buddy has a 2011 2500 Allison/Duramax. He tows a 40' Warrior. He drove once to the dunes with me in my dually....... he is now looking for a dually.

I plead guilty to having towed heavy! LOL! I pulled a 16,000# toyhauler with a 2500Ram. I was over gross wts, but within axle limits. I have years and years of truck driving. I went with that.

I bought a bigger trailer, and the rear axle wt went over. I added dually wheels to the pickup, and air bags.

With an empty pin wt of over 3000#, I do not think there is any way you will be within your rear axle wt rating when trailer is loaded, and you add the wt of people and stuff in the cab.

You should get a dually, or convert yours.

That new rig has Dually written all over it. 3100# of pin weight IMO would be much more stable in a DRW.

I am pretty sure you will be way over or weigh over on two or three of the vehicles weight ratings. If you have not done it already you should weigh in when fully loaded for accurate weights. Adding air bags or extra springs will not raise your trucks tow rating but will give it a better ride.

Check the sticker on the door for weight ratings, weigh in and then see where you stand.

Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
This is the vehicle's standard curb weight, plus an allowance for a standard amount of luggage, gas and passengers, as predicted by the manufacturer. Of course, your vehicle's actual weight will vary depending on how much luggage, gasoline, and passenger weight you have actually placed in the vehicle, so the GVW is an approximation.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)
This is the maximum safe actual weight of your vehicle. If you exceed this weight, the vehicle's engine, transmission, brakes, and so on will be stressed beyond their design limits.

Gross Combination Weight (GCW)
This is the actual weight of your vehicle (GVW) plus the actual total weight (not the tongue weight) of your trailer. This number must not be higher than your vehicle's GCWR.

Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR)
This is the maximum safe weight of your combined vehicle and trailer. This weight includes all people, luggage, and other material. If your combined towing setup exceeds this weight, your vehicle's engine, transmission, brakes, and so on will be stressed beyond their design limits.

Gross Axle Weight (GAW)
These numbers are the weights expected to be placed on your vehicle's front and rear wheels. The two numbers are likely to be different to account for engine weight and other factors.

Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)
This is the maximum safe weight that can be placed on your front or rear wheels. The two numbers are likely to be different to account for engine weight and trailer tongue weight and luggage. If you exceed this weight rating on either the front or rear tires, you can create a dangerous driving situation or even damage your vehicle.

Seems like another difference would be a dually rear axle. You might find you will be happier with a dually once you get that new trailer loaded up.