5th Wheel Hitch-Rails
I recently learned a very valuable lesson while having my air system repaired on my truck. The tech was under the truck, checking for leaks around the air springs, when he noticed two nuts missing fro...
Forum Discussion
Quote:
And keep looking under your truck...you won't find a Nylock nut either!
Elevated underbody temperatures (like exhaust heat from turn up pipes over the axle, mufflers, catalytic converters, and diesel exhaust aftertreatment systems) can partially melt the elastomer in the nylock nut, whereupon it looses all of it's "locking" feature. The OEM's strongly caution approved vehicle upfitters about this.
The best nuts to use are prevailing torque flange nuts. The locking feature of the nut is inherent in the manufactured eccentricity in the thread bore. The friction loss potential is reduced by the elimination of a washer, ANY washer, and the friction/bearing surface is broadened by the integrated flange that is integral to the nut. This is the type of nut you will see under the truck. Any brand of truck... from Toyota to Peterbilt, and all the Ford/Chevy/Rams in between.
The reason why "double nutting" is not seen is because the second nut removes the preload off of the first nut. Friction is most important nearest the parts being clamped, which partially involves the mating surface of the parts themselves, as well as the first two threada after that surface to nut transition along the bolt axis. The second nut in a double nut situation can unload the torque value of the primary nut. Not something seen done by OEM's on vehicles either.
hedge wrote:/Quote.
Lock washers can be the problem sometimes because they break and fall out, i'd rather use loctite and or nylock nuts
Look on your truck, you won't find a lock washer
And keep looking under your truck...you won't find a Nylock nut either!
Elevated underbody temperatures (like exhaust heat from turn up pipes over the axle, mufflers, catalytic converters, and diesel exhaust aftertreatment systems) can partially melt the elastomer in the nylock nut, whereupon it looses all of it's "locking" feature. The OEM's strongly caution approved vehicle upfitters about this.
The best nuts to use are prevailing torque flange nuts. The locking feature of the nut is inherent in the manufactured eccentricity in the thread bore. The friction loss potential is reduced by the elimination of a washer, ANY washer, and the friction/bearing surface is broadened by the integrated flange that is integral to the nut. This is the type of nut you will see under the truck. Any brand of truck... from Toyota to Peterbilt, and all the Ford/Chevy/Rams in between.
The reason why "double nutting" is not seen is because the second nut removes the preload off of the first nut. Friction is most important nearest the parts being clamped, which partially involves the mating surface of the parts themselves, as well as the first two threada after that surface to nut transition along the bolt axis. The second nut in a double nut situation can unload the torque value of the primary nut. Not something seen done by OEM's on vehicles either.
