5th wheel popped out of hitch

bpounds wrote:

0rion wrote:
don't kill me but I have trouble seeing the need for a pull test. When I first got the trailer I did one every time but it always felt like a waste of motion. If I look under the back of the hitch, which I do every time, and see the jaws (which I painted) closed behind the pin and the latch fits into place I see no reason to do the pull test. Maybe I'm missing something and it'll bite me at some point but the way I hook up I just see no way for that trailer to drop out of the hitch unless you're high hitched or the jaws didn't close all the way around the hitch which you should immediately notice when you look into the back of the hitch. I always have the hitch lift the trailer up a touch when hitching so even a high hitch seems almost impossible to me with the way I hook up. Maybe I'm missing something.

Maybe if we called it a "brake test", it would make more sense.

We sit for 6 months during the winter and the alpenlite sits at home for the summer so yes I do the pull test for the trailer brakes push to test the hitch. sometimes products just break, no need for a surprise.

chevman

0rion wrote:
don't kill me but I have trouble seeing the need for a pull test. When I first got the trailer I did one every time but it always felt like a waste of motion. If I look under the back of the hitch, which I do every time, and see the jaws (which I painted) closed behind the pin and the latch fits into place I see no reason to do the pull test. Maybe I'm missing something and it'll bite me at some point but the way I hook up I just see no way for that trailer to drop out of the hitch unless you're high hitched or the jaws didn't close all the way around the hitch which you should immediately notice when you look into the back of the hitch. I always have the hitch lift the trailer up a touch when hitching so even a high hitch seems almost impossible to me with the way I hook up. Maybe I'm missing something.

Maybe if we called it a "brake test", it would make more sense.

Pholman90 wrote:
The lock was just hanging there... We did use a lock going to a clip.

What does this mean?

A trailer can pull the hitch open if the handle lock allows the handle to move out. Need to have that down and locked!!

don't kill me but I have trouble seeing the need for a pull test. When I first got the trailer I did one every time but it always felt like a waste of motion. If I look under the back of the hitch, which I do every time, and see the jaws (which I painted) closed behind the pin and the latch fits into place I see no reason to do the pull test. Maybe I'm missing something and it'll bite me at some point but the way I hook up I just see no way for that trailer to drop out of the hitch unless you're high hitched or the jaws didn't close all the way around the hitch which you should immediately notice when you look into the back of the hitch. I always have the hitch lift the trailer up a touch when hitching so even a high hitch seems almost impossible to me with the way I hook up. Maybe I'm missing something.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

RustyJC wrote:
OK, one more fan boy here. Yes, I've dropped a trailer using a Reese - several times during a pull test, so fortunately the landing legs were still extended and prevented any bed rail damage.

I switched over to the B&W Companion in September 2001 and have never had a bad hitch on a 5th wheel trailer since. BTW, I'm still using the original Companion hitch head that I bought in 2001.

Maybe that's why I'm a B&W fan boy......

Rusty

I am a "fan boy" also and for good reason.

Count me in, too. I'm also the first to admit that the only other in-bed hitch I had was a POS "folding ball" for our GN trailer. After the first 6 months, we had to almost always crawl underneath the truck to pound the ball back up because it would get hung up with dirt and general junk from being a farm truck. When I got the FW, I needed both the GN and the FW hitches, and I wanted a clean bed. There really was only 1 decent option in 2004, and that was B&W. Given the excellent service I've had from the company on the very few times I've needed to call them, I'm 99% impressed with them. The =only= issue I've had with one of their products, is the "tilt spring" that is supposed to level out the hitch head when it's in the unlocked position, since it wants to tilt forward. It works...sort of. I've left it on, but I ended up just putting a bungee cord back on, looped over the back of the big bolt and hooked to unused holes in the side plates. It was free, so NBD... (shrug)

Lyle

RustyJC wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:
Basically if you do not have a Ram with a B&W hitch pulling a Mobile Suites trailer then all you have is junk.

I think you're really going to have to struggle to get that out of my post. All I stated is my personal experience with both Reese and B&W Companion 5th wheel hitches - I never said that anyone else's truck, trailer or hitch are junk.

Rusty

Same here!

I have said multiple times if you had happy with what you have great. I give my experiences with a product people can get value from it or move on.

But the name calling continues.

Oh well as I have said also block me if what I have to say is so "childish" or whatever the latest slam is.

RustyJC wrote:
OK, one more fan boy here. Yes, I've dropped a trailer using a Reese - several times during a pull test, so fortunately the landing legs were still extended and prevented any bed rail damage.

I switched over to the B&W Companion in September 2001 and have never had a bad hitch on a 5th wheel trailer since. BTW, I'm still using the original Companion hitch head that I bought in 2001.

Maybe that's why I'm a B&W fan boy......

Rusty

I am a "fan boy" also and for good reason.

RCMAN46 wrote:
Basically if you do not have a Ram with a B&W hitch pulling a Mobile Suites trailer then all you have is junk.

Trashing all other makes of these items provides no help to the OP.

99% of dropped 5th wheels is operator error and it also has happened with B&W hitches.

If B&W had 90% of the market where new trailer owners with no experience with towing we would see many more drops with the B&W hitches.

You forgot that you also have to run Michelin tires on the truck, and Goodyear on the fifth wheel .

bpounds wrote:
Your image:


That hitch looks pretty beat up. More than I would expect from 20 outings. Did you pick it up second hand?

Not sure why the jaws are not level. And not sure if that means much. But it could indicate looseness from wear. No grease???

To the OP That is a damaged hitch I would not use it!! One jaw bent and not closing all the way!!!

In addition I see what to me is signs on High Hitching, notice the area above the jaws at the nose of the hitch with the rub marks!!!! I have no such marks, when hitched correctly the pin rest on the curved nose of the top plate, and the jaws. That mark would be from the bottom part of the pin coming forward!!!!

This is my hitch, flat jaws fully closed! :B

RustyJC wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:
Basically if you do not have a Ram with a B&W hitch pulling a Mobile Suites trailer then all you have is junk.

I think you're really going to have to struggle to get that out of my post. All I stated is my personal experience with both Reese and B&W Companion 5th wheel hitches - I never said that anyone else's truck, trailer or hitch are junk.

Rusty

No you are confusing yourself with the main Fanboy, and most know who that is .

Have not had any experience with B&W, but have had two Reese hitches, one that is in question here, and the Elite series. Only reason I don't have the one in question is that I needed a higher rated hitch. Neither reese hitch was any mystery to getting hitched properly , but the one in question is a very popular hitch, and stands to reason why we are hearing about them.