Accidental uncoupling - dropping a trailer -

"An accident, mishap, or, more archaically, misadventure, is an unforeseen and unplanned event or circumstance, often with lack of intention or necessity. It usually implies a generally negative outcome which may have been avoided or prevented had circumstances leading up to the accident been recognized, and acted upon, prior to its occurrence"

That is why rv's are dropped.

sdetweil wrote:

Atom Ant wrote:
That is a good idea. I've thought about the cheaper ride rite air compressor mounted right in the cavity behind the pin box with a switch out by where my nose lights switch is. I know I couldn't adjust from the cab, but at least I could adjust it easily from the side of the road without getting out the big compressor.

thanks for that idea.. I will have a left over airlift compressor once I finish my OBA install.

adding one of these momentary remote controls with a T and a airbag vent valve, you can control the TrailAir bag remotely.

Even better yet! There should be plenty of power there at the Jbox for the truck pigtail.

Atom Ant wrote:
That is a good idea. I've thought about the cheaper ride rite air compressor mounted right in the cavity behind the pin box with a switch out by where my nose lights switch is. I know I couldn't adjust from the cab, but at least I could adjust it easily from the side of the road without getting out the big compressor.

thanks for that idea.. I will have a left over airlift compressor once I finish my OBA install.

adding one of these momentary remote controls with a T and a airbag vent valve, you can control the TrailAir bag remotely.

Gib3633 wrote:
On semi's it is recommended that the front of the trailer makes contact with the center of the fifth wheel plate. Make sure plate is tipped back. Before backing under raise your'e rear stabilizers because when the front raises an inch or two it will put extra load on rear stabilizers. Walk back ,have a look ,hook up electrical cord. With reg electric brakes they won't work in reverse but if you have disc brakes you can manually apply the brakes and back under the trailer. If you give a moderate bump you should hear the latch close. While the trailer brakes are still applied do your pull test. Then get out and look at your connection and put safety lock pin in place. That is all a person can do. It's not a bad idea to take a peak after you have been away from your'e vehicle for lunch etc. Never underestimate the practical joker. You probably touch your'e hubs and tires so try to look at this on the way by as well.

This brings to mind something that I did encounter. When getting ready for a trip i noticed that the spare was flat. I took it to the shop and they found nothing wrong with it. I drove that puppy home on my last trip with a spare with no air in it. :S Guess I forgot to kick all the tires before i lit the fire.

On semi's it is recommended that the front of the trailer makes contact with the center of the fifth wheel plate. Make sure plate is tipped back. Before backing under raise your'e rear stabilizers because when the front raises an inch or two it will put extra load on rear stabilizers. Walk back ,have a look ,hook up electrical cord. With reg electric brakes they won't work in reverse but if you have disc brakes you can manually apply the brakes and back under the trailer. If you give a moderate bump you should hear the latch close. While the trailer brakes are still applied do your pull test. Then get out and look at your connection and put safety lock pin in place. That is all a person can do. It's not a bad idea to take a peak after you have been away from your'e vehicle for lunch etc. Never underestimate the practical joker. You probably touch your'e hubs and tires so try to look at this on the way by as well.

Yeah, you can pull the pin on the handle, but as long as you don't open the handle there isn't a problem.

SaladBowl wrote:
In My case a little different. Was unhooking and did not release all the pressure on the plate, did not go high enough to see daylight all the way around, pulled forward nose dropped down , oops, duh.

How close is your 5er to the top rail??

I never take all the weight off the pin before pulling out and have never come close with the rails.

PS: the nose didn't drop, the truck came up!

In My case a little different. Was unhooking and did not release all the pressure on the plate, did not go high enough to see daylight all the way around, pulled forward nose dropped down , oops, duh.

I talked to a guy who claims someone pulled the pin on his B&W Companion during a lunch stop and he didn't notice it until he got to his next RV site over 200 miles away, at least that was his story. B&W is about as "idiot proof" as you can get, it is almost impossible to mi****ch. I guess you could put the pin entirely on top of the hitch plate, but you'd have to be pretty drunk to do that and not realize it.....

Dave H M wrote:
I know this has turned into a blue ox thread, however the Butch's Services sliding bar is flintstone technology, economical, and fool proof unless you forget to engage it also. :W

In my opinion I think it should be impossible to drive off from a "high hitch" On mine the thingy that the king pin is attached to would be a mile higher than the surface of the fifth wheel in the bed. :h

If you own a B&W Companion hitch that is correct. You'd have to hook up with your eyes closed and drive away the same way.