Here's some info I found somewhere on the internet. I thought it was here but can't find the thread to give the OP credit - sorry about that. But it's good info about tying down:
"I have customer's popping fork seals all the time cause they gotta cinch the 800lbs beast down to death screwing up the weak riser bushings and washers as well so this is a setup I came up with and only uses the frame and requires little to no compression of the forks now this is best for the dresser 's since they have the front engine guard but will work on others that have some type of a horizontal frame piece just under the neck.
To start get a 4" by 12" or 4" by 4"s will work and a couple feet of 2" by 4"s and some 1/4" plywood these only need be a foot to a foot and a half long. Have someone help ya here and have them hold your bike upstrait while you take the block wood and add 2by4s and if needed plywood on top so the whole assembly will just slide under the frame under the motor I built mine so I can kick/shuffle it under the bike while I'm stradeling it myself you can cut the Assembly as long as ya want to stick out the sides. when ya got it figured out screw it all together. You can carpet the top as well.
For tie downs I use softstraps looped around the frame and engine guard in a way that puts the stress on the frame more that the guard bar and then use ratchet straps from the softstraps to the trailer or a bed as long as they secure to the floor forward and to the side's this will pull the bike down and forward and with the ratchet tie downs as you work them they will draw the frame down on the block you made with a minimum of fork compressing and no stress on the handlebar componets and I leave the jiffy stand out which helps loading and unloading."
One other thing I've picked up on the forums is that when backing down the ramp, put the bike in gear and use the clutch to brake. That way you keep both feet on the ramp and avoid having the front tire getting light and skidding on ya. Hope this helps. -Greg