Any Mountaineer 347THT Owners?
Picking my 2010 up soon. Plan on putting the Road King in the garage. I am wondering what others who have this model are doing to haul their bikes. Main questions are: How did you outfit it with...
Forum Discussion
Figured out a nice configuration for the bicycles using the Condor chock. I moved it out to the longest position then put the rear tire of one bike into the chock. I turned the other bike around the reverse direction and put a blanket between the two. Then ran the straps through the chocked bike then through the second bike so they kind of compressed together as they tightened on the D rings. Worked like a charm for 5K miles! Remember to keep most of the pressure from the straps on the front near the chock. No back pressure at all just like when the LT is in there.
The heater? Well, I'm positive you can get it out through the access vent below the drawers. How do I know? There is a frame at the back of the drawers that supports the drawers rear section when they are slid all the way to hold them level. On my trailer, this was attached to the underside of the counter with three wood screws and three screws only. Two days into our Canada trip the support frame pulled out of the counter and all the drawers were tilted down. I removed the drawers which gives you LOTS of space to work and a great viewing access of the heater. The heater is flat with numerous additional out-vents that are covered up. Mine already has a vent to the garage. One has to reach through the drawer cabinetry but there is plenty of room to work on the heater and it will slide out the bottom access door once disconnected but you probably won't have to disconnect it once you take the drawers out. So, according to my dealer, the support frame was supposed to be glued to the underside of the counter and the three screws were just to hold the glue in place until it dried. There was evidence of prepping the surfaces but no glue at all. Since I was at a friend's place up in WA we got some contractor's adhesive and a half dozen more screws and did an overkill job fixing it in the "field" as it were. The frame has no lower support on the floor because the heater is there and it gets VERY hot when operating, especially the right side as you look at it from the drawers. I braced the frame against the heater and let it cure for two days while we continued our journey. I did not use the heater during that time. On the third day, I put the drawers back in and it's been fine ever since over another 4000 miles. The drawers have little plastic release tabs in the side slides toward the front. Pull the drawer out so the tab clears the rollers then pinch them together with your fingersas you pull back. One side the plastic goes up and the other down. Pinch at the same time and then pull back on the drawer to slide it out. One of mine needed a little extra encouragement. They "will" come out and I highly recommend you empty them before trying.
There were times when we thought getting the fireplace was a bit over the top. Up in the Canadian Rockies it was in the upper 30s(F) during the day and teens at night. The fireplace has a pretty powerful electric heater in it something like 1500w. With the purchase a of small occilating heater(lots of selection in Canada) for the bedroom we only ran the main propane heater for about 20 minutes each morning to take the overall chill off the trailer. Closing the bedroom door overnight and running the small heater kept conditions nice and toasty using the RV park electricity. We also had our flannel sheets and mattress pad heater on board. The fireplace really pumps out the heat on full setting for the living room and kitchen. It looks great and is quite the nice appliance as well. I was reading about "cold" operating conditions and discovered if it gets super cold, you can close up the slides overnight to maximize the insulation properties of this trailer. It doesn't effect the floor vents or restroom operation at all. Interesting idea as long as no one is using the couch airbed! We never tried it but it's a trick I'll keep in my back pocket.
The heater? Well, I'm positive you can get it out through the access vent below the drawers. How do I know? There is a frame at the back of the drawers that supports the drawers rear section when they are slid all the way to hold them level. On my trailer, this was attached to the underside of the counter with three wood screws and three screws only. Two days into our Canada trip the support frame pulled out of the counter and all the drawers were tilted down. I removed the drawers which gives you LOTS of space to work and a great viewing access of the heater. The heater is flat with numerous additional out-vents that are covered up. Mine already has a vent to the garage. One has to reach through the drawer cabinetry but there is plenty of room to work on the heater and it will slide out the bottom access door once disconnected but you probably won't have to disconnect it once you take the drawers out. So, according to my dealer, the support frame was supposed to be glued to the underside of the counter and the three screws were just to hold the glue in place until it dried. There was evidence of prepping the surfaces but no glue at all. Since I was at a friend's place up in WA we got some contractor's adhesive and a half dozen more screws and did an overkill job fixing it in the "field" as it were. The frame has no lower support on the floor because the heater is there and it gets VERY hot when operating, especially the right side as you look at it from the drawers. I braced the frame against the heater and let it cure for two days while we continued our journey. I did not use the heater during that time. On the third day, I put the drawers back in and it's been fine ever since over another 4000 miles. The drawers have little plastic release tabs in the side slides toward the front. Pull the drawer out so the tab clears the rollers then pinch them together with your fingersas you pull back. One side the plastic goes up and the other down. Pinch at the same time and then pull back on the drawer to slide it out. One of mine needed a little extra encouragement. They "will" come out and I highly recommend you empty them before trying.
There were times when we thought getting the fireplace was a bit over the top. Up in the Canadian Rockies it was in the upper 30s(F) during the day and teens at night. The fireplace has a pretty powerful electric heater in it something like 1500w. With the purchase a of small occilating heater(lots of selection in Canada) for the bedroom we only ran the main propane heater for about 20 minutes each morning to take the overall chill off the trailer. Closing the bedroom door overnight and running the small heater kept conditions nice and toasty using the RV park electricity. We also had our flannel sheets and mattress pad heater on board. The fireplace really pumps out the heat on full setting for the living room and kitchen. It looks great and is quite the nice appliance as well. I was reading about "cold" operating conditions and discovered if it gets super cold, you can close up the slides overnight to maximize the insulation properties of this trailer. It doesn't effect the floor vents or restroom operation at all. Interesting idea as long as no one is using the couch airbed! We never tried it but it's a trick I'll keep in my back pocket.
