Update: I ended up fixing the sliding door myself. The track on the ceiling had pulled down inside the "sleeve." The three screws furthest in had worked out. Very narrow work area especially for a guy with big hands. I bought four 12 inch driver extensions and taped them all together. Took the track down and put a nice layer of glue on the underside. About two hours later I finally got the furthermost screw cinched. Technique is to guide the extension toward the top with one hand and actuate the power driver with the other. Used larger, self-tapping screws which added to the consternation but once they were in it was SOLID. They can also be put in at an angle without snagging the moving door. Both forearms bruised for a week! So, how to prevent this from happening again? I bought a stretch of that 3/4 inch pipe winterizing foam insulation tube. Measured it out the same length as the sliding door then split open the one side. It slides perfectly on three sides of the bottom of the door when it's in the retracted position holding it in place and providing some shock absorption while on the road. Very easy to install and remove.
So, a couple new things. My electric fireplace starts an annoying hum after about 20 minutes with the heat on. It appears to be associated with the heater blower as the sound spools down upon shut off. Can't find the name of the manufacturer, not even on the instruction booklet. Just wonder how it comes apart for cleaning and/or lubrication? Second item: I have the propane powered generator and would like to install a propane tap on the streetside propane tank to run a BBQ. I don't really know much about propane pressures, etc. Have any of you done this? I've seen other folks with fivers use this set up but none had the propane generator.