Anyone Replaced The Integrated Brake Controller?

I replaced the IBC in my 12 Ram 2500 with a Primus IQ. The Ram IBC is too jerky at stop lights or when cruising thru a campground. The IQ is way smoother.

FWIW I'm on my 2nd IBC. The 1st one was bad from the get go with less than 1000 miles on it.

Previous truck was a 2010 F150. The IBC in it was the best BC I've ever used. Ford seems to have it dialed in better than Ram IMO.

Mile High wrote:

netjam wrote:
In my 08 Ford the Ford IBC would not run my electric/hydraulic brakes on my trailer (a common problem with electric/hydraulics of that era) so I installed a prodigy which worked great. I have since traded the Ford and my trailer (to one with electric drums) and now use the IBC in the new truck with the std electric trailer brakes. If you switch out the IBC one thing to remember is not to unplug the IBC, just cut the output wires to connect your aftermarket controller. If you unplug the IBC the truck computer senses it and shows a dash alarm.

Not sure what actuator you had, but my Carlisle Hydra-Star has a module that lets any truck operate the electric over hydraulic. I towed this trailer with electric/hydraulic disk brakes with a 2006, 2008, and 2014 Ford with IBC without any modifications beyond just plugging it in. The module is an HBA-CAM. I just had to remember on the 2014 to actually select electric/hydraulic on the IBC. The 2008 or 2006 did not have that as a selectable option.

The HBA-CAM would not work with my Actibrake actuator. Had many discussions with the Actibrake people (Actibrake now out of business) while trying to resolve the issue. Gave up and bypassed the IBC with the aftermarket prodigy and ended the hassle. I think DRV ended up replacing the Actibrake actuator for most DRV owners with the Carlisle eventually after so many complaints.

bpounds wrote:
In my experience, people who have used add-on BC in the past are sometimes not happy with the IBC when they first get a new truck. They are used to the herky jerky function of the old BC, which in a way is confidence inspiring. Because you can tell it is obviously working. The IBC tend to be so smooth that you can hardly tell they are doing anything. Once that is figured out, it is pretty rare for anyone to want to go back to an aftermarket controller. But it does happen.

Very true about the smooth operation and making you wonder if it is working or not. The only thing I did notice is that I have to use more output power than I did with the add-on BC I had in the old truck. But this could also be due to the new 5er as well.

The IBC on the 10 and 11 RAM HD trucks are crap, the 12 and newer are OK. I replaced 11 3500 w a P3 and it works greate, I left the IBC under the dash so the computer thinks it is still working.
Dan

netjam wrote:
In my 08 Ford the Ford IBC would not run my electric/hydraulic brakes on my trailer (a common problem with electric/hydraulics of that era) so I installed a prodigy which worked great. I have since traded the Ford and my trailer (to one with electric drums) and now use the IBC in the new truck with the std electric trailer brakes. If you switch out the IBC one thing to remember is not to unplug the IBC, just cut the output wires to connect your aftermarket controller. If you unplug the IBC the truck computer senses it and shows a dash alarm.

Not sure what actuator you had, but my Carlisle Hydra-Star has a module that lets any truck operate the electric over hydraulic. I towed this trailer with electric/hydraulic disk brakes with a 2006, 2008, and 2014 Ford with IBC without any modifications beyond just plugging it in. The module is an HBA-CAM. I just had to remember on the 2014 to actually select electric/hydraulic on the IBC. The 2008 or 2006 did not have that as a selectable option.

In my 08 Ford the Ford IBC would not run my electric/hydraulic brakes on my trailer (a common problem with electric/hydraulics of that era) so I installed a prodigy which worked great. I have since traded the Ford and my trailer (to one with electric drums) and now use the IBC in the new truck with the std electric trailer brakes. If you switch out the IBC one thing to remember is not to unplug the IBC, just cut the output wires to connect your aftermarket controller. If you unplug the IBC the truck computer senses it and shows a dash alarm.

The IBC uses brake pressure to give the braking voltage. It is far more sensitive to your braking needs than the other types. It does take some getting used to as you have to put some pressure on the brake pedal before the trailer brakes do much. Also some of the earlier IBC's didn't work on hydraulic brakes without an additional interface. I would never go back.

I had a Tekonsha inertial (don't remember the model number) in my previous TV. The 2013 Sierra came with the integrated controller and I would never dream of replacing it. It interfaces with the ABS system in the truck and will actually apply slight braking to the trailer if any sway is sensed. It saved by backside towing on I-20 in Columbia, SC, when the two big rigs in front of me locked smoked all 18 wheels (little old lady ramped on in front of them going half as fast...). I stood on the brakes - nothing ever locked up, I stayed in my lane, and my rig slowed 30MPH in just a couple of seconds.

In my experience, people who have used add-on BC in the past are sometimes not happy with the IBC when they first get a new truck. They are used to the herky jerky function of the old BC, which in a way is confidence inspiring. Because you can tell it is obviously working. The IBC tend to be so smooth that you can hardly tell they are doing anything. Once that is figured out, it is pretty rare for anyone to want to go back to an aftermarket controller. But it does happen.

duplicate