Battery isolator help

klassic wrote:
Thanks for the replies..
Yes I have an inverter, because as I said I have a residential fridge. It doesn't run on propane.
All the lights are LED

OK we better understand


I have a battery compartment for 6 batteries, but I'm not interested in the additional weight and cost.
I'm slightly interested in an inverter generator, but I don't have an extra $1200 kicking around.

What bramd batterys do you have now? 6 volt duracells @ sams club are 89 bucks

I would add two more of tha same AH that you have.. Its the smartest move IMO for your power needs.



My trucks batteries don't necessarily have the voltage to keep up, once the 6v's are low,

You have to start your truck before moving a slide or what not. The alternator will power the slides and such.

The trailer needs to be plugged to the truck.

after the voltage drop through small guage wire travelling from the front of the truck to operate 3 electric slides and a high demand electric 6 point leveling system.

Are you saying with the truck plugged in and low batterys on the camper and truck running you cant operate the slides?


I DO, however, have this $25 90amp isolator and a brand new 12 volt battery sitting around.
My thought was to always have a fully charged 12v battery to operate only the slides and Ground Control, by separating those systems from the 6v's. Or, for that matter, just to have an extra battery if the 6v's die.

Where are you putting this battery? You cant charge different batterys of the campers charger. You need same AH batterys or your will just cook the 12 volt and overcharge it...



Very similar to a MH that has separate "house" and "starting" battery banks.

Its what you have now. House batterys on the camper and starting on the truck.

Your truck has an isolater Im sure. So if you leave the camper plugged into the truck , the camper will not drain your truck battery.

With truck running the truck battery trys to dump to the camper batterys but the alt will amp up to supply the needed power for charging.

With your truck running your alt should be supplying 13.5 plus volts to the trailer batterys



One thing too is make sure truck is in tow haul mOde. Some trucks try to save fuel and reduce voltage from the alt. tow haul mode disables this to send full alt ability to charge/

I dry camp very little, but I have had to park (with no power) for many hours in the heat with the exhaust fan running, fridge running, and having very little power left to operate the slides.

[COLOR=]Can you explain more on this?

I just don't know how the progressive charging system of the converter will act being hooked to an isolator charging two separate battery banks.


as I stated above thats a no no.


IMO your best off getting two move 6 volts. Then get a 3 way battery switch.

Run on both banks when driving. When stopped swith to bank one or two. Alternate betwwen stops.

See here.