Best hitch (non-slider)
I have been using the Superglide for about 10 yrs and have lost touch with the non-sliders. I am going to a long bed dually and would like to install the best hitch available. Any suggestions?
Forum Discussion
We not only missed something, you did too! The tongue weight capacity of the 3300 is actually 5,000 lbs, not just 4,500 lbs.
The 3300 is not as adjustable as the 3000. Only 2" fore and aft in the 3300 versus 4" in the 3000.
The OP has a 2013 Chevy, and while Reese makes puck kits for all brands, I just didn't think about that option. Glad you brought it up though.
Now, if the OP decided to go with Reese puck rails, then that opens up the option to the Reese 25K Elite series hitch. Some users have opined that the Elite series is the best non-air hitch they've ever used. (They haven't always identified what hitches they have used previously).
One thing that even some onwners of B&W Companion hitches don't realize... To properly remove and replace the 3000 Companion hitch requires wrenches! Everytime, not just at initial set up. There is a lot of confusion about this, and the archives to this very forum chronicles that confusion very well... to the point of disbelief by some and "warm" discussion by others.
A careful read of B&W's instruction manual states that the all four Ubolt nuts as well as the top post bolt should be loosened every time for hitch removal, and then reset and retightened every time (torqued, to be proper) the hitch is reinstalled. Not exactly like simply pulling a pin, as many people mistakenly believe (myself included, until I researched it, read the manual, and called and confirmed with B&W).
So, with that all being said, I can see THREE good reasons why retispcsi's system is superior to just a regular 3000 companion:
1. 20,000 lbs trailer weight versus 18,000 lbs trailer weight
2. 5,000 lbs pin weight versus 4,500 lbs pin weight
and...
3! TRULY a quick, tool-less, torque-wrench-less hitch removal process with the puck system, versus the loosening and retorquing of two Ubolts and a top bolt each and every time.
The 3300 is not as adjustable as the 3000. Only 2" fore and aft in the 3300 versus 4" in the 3000.
The OP has a 2013 Chevy, and while Reese makes puck kits for all brands, I just didn't think about that option. Glad you brought it up though.
Now, if the OP decided to go with Reese puck rails, then that opens up the option to the Reese 25K Elite series hitch. Some users have opined that the Elite series is the best non-air hitch they've ever used. (They haven't always identified what hitches they have used previously).
One thing that even some onwners of B&W Companion hitches don't realize... To properly remove and replace the 3000 Companion hitch requires wrenches! Everytime, not just at initial set up. There is a lot of confusion about this, and the archives to this very forum chronicles that confusion very well... to the point of disbelief by some and "warm" discussion by others.
A careful read of B&W's instruction manual states that the all four Ubolt nuts as well as the top post bolt should be loosened every time for hitch removal, and then reset and retightened every time (torqued, to be proper) the hitch is reinstalled. Not exactly like simply pulling a pin, as many people mistakenly believe (myself included, until I researched it, read the manual, and called and confirmed with B&W).
So, with that all being said, I can see THREE good reasons why retispcsi's system is superior to just a regular 3000 companion:
1. 20,000 lbs trailer weight versus 18,000 lbs trailer weight
2. 5,000 lbs pin weight versus 4,500 lbs pin weight
and...
3! TRULY a quick, tool-less, torque-wrench-less hitch removal process with the puck system, versus the loosening and retorquing of two Ubolts and a top bolt each and every time.
