Can I repack my own wheel bearings?

SidecarFlip wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Nothing has changed much in 50 years. The grease is better and now we wear rubber gloves to keep the hands clean. Rest is the same. I agree every year is a bit much unless you run miles like a commercial carrier.

I never wear gloves, I like grease under my fingernails.:p

OK and today most are aware of the toxic properties of these oils and lubricants and prefer not to expose ourselves to more than necessary.

I've got a bearing packer and use it sometimes. I've got skinny fingers and can hook one inside a bearing and pack the grease from my left palm. Maybe 3 minutes per bearing. Packing a bearing by hand is one of those things you have to do at least once.
I just got the HF bearing and seal tool. It's just a 6inch round bar with an assortment of plates that screw on the end and will fit over the thin side of a race and inside the hub. Just hit or tap on the end of the round bar until you hear and feel the race seat. I used a brass bar or drift pin or punch previously. I start my seal by laying the square shank of a chisel or similar tool across the seal. Get it started as flat as possible and tap it in. The square shank will insure the seal is mounted perpendicular to the shaft and is level with the back side of the hub.
Most of my roller bearing work was on process pumps and general purpose turbines. That was using a conductive bearing heater with a digital thermometer and mounted radial and thrust bearings on a pump shaft using thick high temp gloves. Some tapered roller bearings in larger reduction gearboxes. I usually used a Dake arbor press to insert seals. Larger equipment used tilting pad plain bearings. 99% of our process rotating equipment ran with no oil reservoir or grease. We used oil mist off a air/oil generator to a header and tubing drops to the bearing housings.

BarneyS wrote:
Take a look at this post for a complete tutorial, complete with pictures, of how to repack your wheel bearings and also how to adjust your trailer brakes. It is stuck at the top of the Towing forum.
Barney

Although that tutorial covers some good points, the important part is pretty much left out, how to properly pack a wheel bearing by hand, there is a technique . Unless you have seen someone pack a wheel bearing by hand the right way, it can be done wrong. Bearing packer takes all the fun out of packing them by hand :)

azdryheat wrote:
As long as it's done right the first time, you don't need to do it every year.

I agree , I have never done wheel bearings once a year. Yes pack them right. I can only imagine how some do wheel bearings.

TxGearhead wrote:
I would get the part # for the seals and bearings from your axle manufacturer. When you take your old seals and bearings to the local auto parts store they will substitute the OEM parts for whatever they have on the shelf. I just did it 2 months ago and told myself this is the last time. I got my Dexter seal # and Timken bearing numbers. Next time it will be OEM or better quality ordered from Amazon.
Go get a bearing and seal installation tool kit, from Harbor Freight. Put the bearing races in the freezer overnight and they will go in easier. Packing a bearing is easier than falling off a log. And, get you about 6 inches of 1/2" brass bar stock to hammer the old races out. Clean any brass shards out of the hub cavity well. Buy an extra seal in case you bugger one up installing. I like to put a fair amount (tablespoon?) of grease between the seal and the inboard bearing. Hit the seal area with some sandpaper to clean any burrs off. Don't get too carried away with it though.
Most important is clean clean clean. Your hands, the bearings, the spindle, etc.
You've seen those knuckles draggers at the RV shop getting paid to pack bearings. You can do it.

I agree I like the Dexter seals, and also get them from Amazon, same with bearings, but this last time it was just repack, and new seals.

I have changed plenty of races with the brass bar. I suppose a seal installation tool kit is nice ,although I have no idea what it is :) Never had an issue reinstalling grease seals. The one thing I don't do is pack the bearings by hand anymore, I use one of those bearing packers. IMO they do a better job, and a lot less messy, and quicker. Have done many with it, without issue. I know some are old school, but at 71, I guess I'm new school now, I packed bearings way too long by hand .

But as you said keep things clean. Also will take a look at that tool kit from Harbor Freight .

I would get the part # for the seals and bearings from your axle manufacturer. When you take your old seals and bearings to the local auto parts store they will substitute the OEM parts for whatever they have on the shelf. I just did it 2 months ago and told myself this is the last time. I got my Dexter seal # and Timken bearing numbers. Next time it will be OEM or better quality ordered from Amazon.
Go get a bearing and seal installation tool kit, from Harbor Freight. Put the bearing races in the freezer overnight and they will go in easier. Packing a bearing is easier than falling off a log. And, get you about 6 inches of 1/2" brass bar stock to hammer the old races out. Clean any brass shards out of the hub cavity well. Buy an extra seal in case you bugger one up installing. I like to put a fair amount (tablespoon?) of grease between the seal and the inboard bearing. Hit the seal area with some sandpaper to clean any burrs off. Don't get too carried away with it though.
Most important is clean clean clean. Your hands, the bearings, the spindle, etc.
You've seen those knuckles draggers at the RV shop getting paid to pack bearings. You can do it.

time2roll wrote:
Nothing has changed much in 50 years. The grease is better and now we wear rubber gloves to keep the hands clean. Rest is the same. I agree every year is a bit much unless you run miles like a commercial carrier.

I never wear gloves, I like grease under my fingernails.:p

Nothing has changed much in 50 years. The grease is better and now we wear rubber gloves to keep the hands clean. Rest is the same. I agree every year is a bit much unless you run miles like a commercial carrier.

As long as it's done right the first time, you don't need to do it every year.

On my old Komfort, I paid to have the bearings replaced after 10-11 years. While they were there, they checked and adjusted the brakes. Total, including new bearings and seals, was <$300. Well worth it, to me. FWIW, I'm a pretty low-milage owner and the OEM brakes, bearings, races and seals were still in good condition. I never repacked them, just shot a few shots of grease into them every year and, while the wheels were off the ground to grease, grabbed them to check for wear.

Lyle